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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian and Jonathan Smoot, 1990
Page Views: 544 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nicholas Yaskoff on Jun 1, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

The bolt spacing between the 3rd and 4th bolt is a little awkward. The traverse can safely be protected with pro if desired. The view from the top is well worth the climb.

Location

Right of Lead Balloon and left of Stick Figure Stays Home.

Protection

7 bolts then the chains.

Photos

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Michael Bolton
Midvale, UT
 
Michael Bolton   Midvale, UT
 
I would recommend bringing a #2 camalot to place behind the solid part of the flake several feet to the right of bolt 4 with a long runner. We didn't clip bolt 4 and went directly up the flake before clipping bolt 5. We placed a #0.4 camalot between the last two bolts. Aug 14, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
Stan gives the key pro beta here: 2" piece after second clip, and I'd toss in a TCU just below that, too.

IMO...The first bolt is in a stupid position, and it really detracts from the route by artificially adding danger to just getting started. Why does this have to happen on Rap/Drilled routes?

Just bring a pile of TCUs to throw in as you see fit. Apr 22, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
A gold camalot on a long sling before the forth bolt and a yellow TCU between the last two reduces the run-out. The crux may be getting to the first bolt so use caution or maybe stick-clip it. Jun 25, 2012
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10c PG13
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10c PG13
Hornets nest is destroyed. A bit runout. Oct 15, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
I got stung in the ear by one of them damn hornets! My fault though for poking their home I guess... Aug 16, 2010
I came across a hornets nest after the third or fourth bolt. Aug 5, 2010