Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim Howe, Tomi Howe 1989
Page Views: 97 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

On the Northeast face is one steep, bolted line. Blockbuster climbs this line until the bolts end and then it can be protected with gear. A very insecure route with a mean pump and technical climbing as well. The major negative of this route is some considerably loose rock. The crux is after bolt 2, but the entire bolted section is tough, either reachy or technical, and the rock surface down low is polished glass. After the bolt, you are still looking at 5.10 climbing, and kind of pumpy still. The book called this one a 5.10c, but I am saying 5.10d/5.11a, this route is hard, really hard.

Location

On the NE face, there is the left-most bolted line that climbs into a sort of a slot/dihedral, just left of some large roofs.

Protection

3 draws for the route, 2 more for the (new) chains, and not small gear for the crack. Medium to small, but nothing too small is needed. Runners are very helpful as there are roofs.

Photos

grk10vq    
a test of nerves, there are a lot of blocks on this route that may just bust off into your face.
as usual, i enjoyed it. fourty-six mountain project stars. Jul 14, 2013

More About Blockbuster

Printer-Friendly