Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gary Olsen, 1987
Page Views: 736 total · 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 28, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Yeah, go ahead and lug the cams up, this route is worth it -- an unusual (for BCC), two-part, right-facing dihedral with a sweet fingers-to-thin-hands crack in the back. From the ground, either climb a somewhat licheny face to gain the ledge from which the first part of the dihedral begins, or maybe better, start up Eraserhead (clipping its first bolt) and step right to the first part of the dihedral. One of the first routes put up on The Millstone. Ruckmans: “"Strenuous and Canyonlands-esque.”"


Between Eraserhead to the left and Personal Jesus to the right.


Double set of cams from thin fingers to thin hands, and maybe a few similar-sized nuts. Rap or lower from the anchors for Eraserhead (two bolts equipped with slings --— in good condition as of this writing, but consider doing a public service and bring chains to install).