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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Howe, Keith Maas 1990
Page Views: 822 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 4, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The last line of bolts off the ledge. Personal Jesus is an awkward climb down low, with the arete (I assume it is on) forcing you into reachy slopey sidepulls. Once you hit the horizontal crack, it becomes more straightforward technical face climbing. I felt the crux could have been at bolt 2 or attaining the anchors. There is deck potential on blowing bolt 3, so beware.

Location

The last route on the ramp.

Protection

4 draws and 2 for the chains. Rap down.

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
You will need protection on this route.

Place a #1 or .75 Camalot in the horizontal after the second bolt.

Standing on this horizontal poses the crux of the route. Apr 22, 2015
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a PG13
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a PG13
Very committing moves between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Fight the barn doors with careful footwork. Jul 7, 2011