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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tomi and Jim Howe 1990
Page Views: 1,961 total, 14/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 4, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

This line of bolts is the second line of bolts as you continue around the corner from Blockbuster. It has 3 bolts a huge ledge and three more. The crux is down low, but getting off the ledge can give people trouble too. Beware of ankles from falling at bolt 4.

Location

After the face turns back to SE facing from NE facing there are three bolted lines accessed from the ramp. This is the middle line.

Protection

6 draws and two for the chains.
J Saarela
Park City
  5.10b/c
J Saarela   Park City
  5.10b/c
Thin for the first 3 bolts, crux for me was clipping 5th bolt. Just couldn't seem to find the feet. The fall onto the 4th bolt is not bad, but be aware of the potential to deck on the ledge (fell 3 times going for 5th clip and was still a couple feet above the ledge each time). Great view of Sundial from the anchors.

After cleaning, rappel past the belay station to some talus to avoid the scramble back down the slab. Jun 1, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
Be careful how you position the belayer. A fall low could lead to a collision. Watch that second clip, a fall with a hand full of rope could put you on the slab. Terrific route with solid, vertical edging and positive crimps. Apr 22, 2015
MarkJ Johnston
Salt Lake City, UT
 
MarkJ Johnston   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Some holds on the initial block (first three bolts) are loose/hollow. Glad there is new hardware to clip. Oct 20, 2012
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Good warm-up for the area. Precision footwork is definitely the key. Make sure you enjoy the views from the top. Jul 7, 2011
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
This is a superb route with a technical feel. It would easily be a three or four star route at any one of the more accessible crags in the canyon. Enjoy the thin edges and the extremely fun moves on quality quartzite. Sep 22, 2008