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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jim Haisely, Keith Maas 1989
Page Views: 148 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matt Barrigar on Aug 7, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

This is the next climb up from the big 5.9 flake, about midway up the wall. The climb is well bolted with no runouts, except for the very easy top portion. The climb is really pumpy, with a few technical moves at about the fifth bolt. Really fun. Somebody should consider adding some chains at the top.

Protection

Bring six draws for the climb. The anchor is a tree at the top with fixed slings around it. Use these or bring your own if you don't trust them. The tree is about twenty feet back from the edge, so there is quite a bit of drag.

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
MarkJ gives up the critical advice here:

BRING AND PLACE PRO!!

I wrote "Needs 1" piece before first bolt"...amen

And...IMO...5.10d

was rated .10b...SANDBAG!! Apr 22, 2015
MarkJ Johnston
Salt Lake City, UT
 
MarkJ Johnston   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Continuous and committing. Bring a #2 and #.4-.5 to protect before the first bolt. I experienced no rope drag. The bolts are widely spaced by modern standards, but this is not a dangerous climb, just a little spicy. Chain anchor at the top. Oct 20, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
"well bolted"? Bull crap. First bolt is way off the deck, maybe 20 feet? Bring a few cams if you don't feel like grounding out. The next 4 bolts are all way spaced. The climbing is good, but bad bolting. Jul 28, 2012
Great route! This thing will mess up most 5.10c leaders. It is stout in the middle. Give er Aug 6, 2010
The tree anchor was replaced with ring anchors by A. Meyer in 2007. Jun 2, 2008
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Rope drag isn't bad if you bring a long draw or runner, but the anchors are horrible. I WILL NOT repeat this route until the dead tree anchor is replaced. Only those with a death wish would tempt fate by using that tree as an anchor. Otherwise it would be a quality route. Jun 8, 2006
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Questionable bolt placements (the first in particular) and hideous rope drag makes this route needlessly frustrating. Oct 14, 2004