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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Smoot & Kevin Florendo, 1990
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tryhard Scoville on Jul 16, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Another solid Millstone route. Thin edgy climbing that requires some patience, creativity, and technical movement. The crux is around the third or fourth bolt. A good climb that stays interesting start to finish.

Location

Bolted route just uphill from left facing flake system (Hollow Excuses 5.9R).

Protection

5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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John Steiger  
 
Although enjoyable, this is a somewhat contrived line between easier climbing on the right (Hollow Excuses) and easier climbing on the left (a left-diagonalling system of flakes). There are at least two different ways to climb it: if you follow the natural weaknesses, you end up clipping the third bolt by stretching far to your right, then stepping back left and continuing to the fourth bolt. Done this way, the route is probably 10d or 11a. If you try to stay directly in the bolt line, tenuous underclings/sidepulls make clipping the third bolt sketchy, and gives a few more hard moves before reaching the fourth bolt. Done this way, it'’s probably 11b, maybe even a tad harder. The Ruckmans’' guide rates the route 11b, commenting that "“[m]any climbers encounter an impasse in the vicinity of the third bolt"” -- close enough. Aug 23, 2011