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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: J. Haisely, K. Maas, 1989
Page Views: 804 total, 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Mar 23, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Act I: Prologue


"What's in a name? that which we call a route by any other name would climb as sweet;"

Well of course it would, the appropriately named Moon Walk is just that--an airy defiance of Newton's Law.
While a space suit is not required, you'll feel like you're wearing moon boots when pulling the crux of this cosmic line.

  • Scene I: Starting off on shaky ground, Moon Walk becomes very fun, revealing edge after edge of blocky Gunks style climbing. Follow a line of three generously spaced bolts to gain some very alien terrain.
  • Scene II: Enter CRUX. A comforting rest allows ample time for contemplation of your approaching moon walk. A sequence of far out and bewildering moves (grovel) get you up and left to some friendlier terrain.
  • Scene III: Past the crux, fight the pump and ascend up and slightly left past two or three more bolts to an anchor.

Exeunt.

END SCENE

Act II: Location


Moon Walk sits just right of Stong Arm with the Lads and is the next route up trail from Earthling. Traveling up and along the base of The Millstone you'll reach a huge pine tree with two large boulders blocking the trail. Climb over these boulders to regain the trail and reach the base of Moon Walk

Act III: Protection


Seven or Eight Bolts to a two bolt anchor. Slings are very helpful for the anchor as the bolts are slightly uneven and just above the cliffs rim. At this time, the anchor consists of two bolts, slings, and rap rings.

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
There is an .11c crux getting to the second bolt, and the massive rest below the crux at bolt #5 should be milked for all its worth to ensure success on the fairly long sequence of hard moves above.

Bring a 2" piece to protect the traverse above the last bolt. Apr 22, 2015
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
Lots of these climbs need bolt replacements and the anchors on this one needs new slings - so if you are going to get on it bring new slings. Moon Walk has a lot of personality. The first bolt is way high so don't blow it. Techy face climbing will lead you to a big rest before launching into the left trending crux. Nasty slopey crimps with disappearing feet. I was thrilled to get thru it and get to some bigger holds. But wait its not over, you gotta fight the pump with jugs and small slopers up over the top! Happy I made it! May 17, 2014