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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, Grade II
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,521 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Approach: Follow the standard approach to the Millstone climbing area. Take the trail towards Lake Blanch, following the pavement trail out of the parking lot, then the dirt trail up Mill B South. Instead of crossing the creek, take the well worn trail which stays on the west side of the drainage. This trail eventually leads to the large talus cone coming down from the Millstone climbing area. Follow the talus up, until just below the bottom of the steep, east facing rock climbing area (50-80 foot vertical wall). Cross over towards the base of the steep wall, and, short break in the wall should be visible. Climb over this, onto the low angle, well featured slab, and, either cross over and climb onto the main slab (about 200 feet above the very bottom of the slab), or, carefully down climb the narrow slab (short 3 to 5 foot east facing wall on the narrow slab’s right side) to the bottom and cross over to the main, unbroken slab for the full meal deal. Pick a line up the smooth slab, start up. Voila.

Compared to the West Slabs of Mount Olympus and the Mineral Slab, this is sustained lower angle, but, much less featured and fairly polished in most locations. My guess is the angle is from around 30 to 45 degrees is all, but, the rock in most places is smooth and slick. Good route finding required to piece together a reasonable, safe route. Not much loose rock. The wall “rolls” like a wave in places, where it gets low angle enough to traverse or walk, and, high angle enough to get “interesting”. Traversing off if weather or conditions change may be somewhat difficult in the first half or two-thirds of the slab.

The slab gains about 700 feet of vertical and the ridge above can be followed to a nice high point yielding fine views of the Sundial and the upper Mill B South drainage.

Descent: follow social/game trails down and eventually hook up with the Broad’s Fork trail.

Location

The Millstone Slab is located on the west side of the Mill B South drainage, and is the very large slab forming the west side of the steep, east facing rock climbing area.

Protection

If using a rope, take a standard rack of gear including a set of stoppers, micro cams up through a #3 Camalot (or equivalent). There will be the potential for very hefty run outs depending on the line chosen. At best, expect to climb 60 or more feet without protection in places on the smooth, nearly featureless face. Angling back and forth might help connect discontinuities.

No fixed anchors or gear.
b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
b Light   Salt Lake City, Utah
5.5 -ish. You can make it as hard or as easy as you want. It is an ocean of options.
Hiked the climbers trail past the bridge and up the talus field until you saw the Millstone climbs... then traversed hard right to the base of the slab.
Hike off was basically moderate bush whacking. More pleasant that the west slabs decent. We took the fartherest north gully to descend.
We pitched it out.
Very interesting piece of rock. Quiet setting. Beautiful, wavy, smooth face.
Definitely 50+ foot run outs between pieces. Gear was finicky.
1,000 Feet for sure (with 80 meter we did 5 Pitches). Not 700 feet as someone mentioned.
- Rack -
Single Red and Yellow C3. Single .3-#3. Offsets (they seemed to be the magic piece, doubles in offsets might make you happy).
Long runners (4 - 48", 4 - 24")
Didn't use nuts. Jun 19, 2017
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  Easy 5th
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  Easy 5th
Great slab route. I'd give mineral slab 1 star, this 3 stars, and west slabs 4 stars for reference. The rock on this is outstanding, bulletproof and practically no loose rock. This felt slightly less steep than the west slabs, but also much more friction-like. Plenty of good small holds, but not the big jugs like you find on west slabs. There is no pro anywhere, so don't bother bringing a rope. Its definitely in the scramble category rather than the climbing one. Approach shoes are totally fine for this one.

Approach: I find the talus slope up to Millstone proper to be a bear, so I took the first small creek drainage on the right after hiking for about 3-5 minutes past the bridge/bench turnoff point. This led me directly up to the base of the slabs, with some bushwacking, but is pretty direct.

Descent: I also descended down the gully just northwest of the slabs back into Mill B drainage, fun and easy with moderate bushwacking. Lands you back in the same small drainage you followed up. May 12, 2015
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I climbed this today and had a great time on it. As others have said, it's remarkably consistent. I started up in my approach shoes but switched to my climbing shoes a couple hundred feet up. Felt more secure.

For the descent I didn't want to descend down into Broads Fork because I wasn't familiar with that area at all, so I came down around the west (climber's right) side of the Millstone Slab and then followed a dry creek bed back down to the trail. Some minor bushwhacking was required but it wasn't bad.

Approach beta here was spot on. I scrambled down to the very bottom tip of the slab before climbing up again. May 22, 2012
zoso  
That settles it. I'm going to spray about 150 bolts into it. (heh heh) Aug 2, 2010
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
 
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
 
Not nearly as featureless as stated here. Pro is rare and often sketchy. I recommend free solo on this one. The game trails into broads fork go through beautiful open forest. Jul 30, 2010
ColinP  
Long, consistent, and secluded warrants 2 stars for this slab in my opinion. I climbed directly up the middle following obvious seams in the rock. The climbing is low 5th class, and it's incredibly consistent for the entire 700 vertical feet. The exposure is beautiful. Two hours round trip from the car. Sep 20, 2009