Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Keith Maas, Gordon Douglas 1989
Page Views: 71 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A crack system with a traverse, Pencilneck starts off with a flake that doesn't feel too solid, then crosses right into a thin vertical crack. This crack does protect acceptably, but climbs well. At the top of this crack it changes to an exceptional but short, finger/hand crack that traverses right. Follow this up to another short crack, this one a left facing dihedral. Finish up.

Location

Just left of Eraserhead is a right-facing flake. This is the shared start of this route and Hollow Excuses. Pencilneck crosses right immediately.

Protection

Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. Small gear for the thin crack, and some runners. It shares the anchors with Eraserhead, so a bring extra slings (or chains) for the anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
dnaiscool  
 
Make sure to bring this rack to do this route safely:

#3-5 RP;
Doubles TCU #0-3;
one each Camalot from .5 to 2 Apr 22, 2015