Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Keith Maas, Gordon Douglas 1989
Page Views: 639 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Description Suggest change

A crack system with a traverse, Pencilneck starts off with a flake that doesn't feel too solid, then crosses right into a thin vertical crack. This crack does protect acceptably, but climbs well. At the top of this crack it changes to an exceptional but short, finger/hand crack that traverses right. Follow this up to another short crack, this one a left facing dihedral. Finish up.

Location Suggest change

Just left of Eraserhead is a right-facing flake. This is the shared start of this route and Hollow Excuses. Pencilneck crosses right immediately.

Protection Suggest change

Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. Small gear for the thin crack, and some runners. It shares the anchors with Eraserhead, so a bring extra slings (or chains) for the anchor.

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