Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Black Velvet Wall

American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,065 total · 26/month
Shared By: Chad Kuhlman on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

If you ever find yourself at the base of Black Velvet Wall with enough gear this can be a fun end of the day climb. This is a nice fun finger crack with the start being the most challenging and getting easier as it goes. Be careful at the top of the route as their may be some questionable rock. I think that this route would clean up if traveled on a bit more. The crux may be having the right gear considering most people who go to the Black Velvet wall come only with a light rack.

Location

Walk uphill to the far left of the Black Velvet wall to about 15 yards shy of the gully that divides Whiskey Peak and the Black Velvet Wall. Look for a finger crack that turns into a right facing dihedral for the first 30 feet.

Protection

Single rack 2" and doubles/triples in the finger size range. Nice new anchors with raps rings at the top. Be careful when lowering/rappelling with a 60m, tie knots in the end to be safe.

Photos

Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10
Triples in .3/.4 and double rack to 1" would be a solid suggestion as far as gear is concerned. Handren suggests to 3, didn't place anything bigger than a single #1. Placed one, maybe two .75's, certainly not three. Quality route with some stiff pulls throughout. Fantastic! May 31, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Sews up nicely with 2x .3, .4, .5 Camalots. Your gear will be spaced out at the top but nothing that warrants a R or PG13 rating. The rock up top is chocolatey buckety goodness, oh my. Finger size dependent as my girlfriend climbed it and made it look like it was hard 5.11 ringlocks. Apr 8, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b/c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b/c
great little route, well worth doing. bring three each of .75" and 1" cams for comfort on this. a double rack will do if you slide some cams up and get creative with stoppers. you dont need anything bigger than a #1 camalot, though. Oct 18, 2009