Type: Trad, 715 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst, Stephanie Petrilak, Mike Gilbert - May 1978.
Page Views: 66 total · 66/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 4, 2019
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Malicious Mischief is the analog crack to the Epinephrine chimneys. Despite being one of the most obvious lines in all of Black Velvet Canyon, it doesn't see much traffic - probably because the stunning crux pitch has a reputation for being dangerous. This reputation is well-deserved. The first 50' of the crack are 12-16" and completely unprotectable - a fall would probably result in serious injury or death. The good news is the climbing is much easier than the grade given (5.10c) in recent guidebooks and, excepting breaking a hold, chances of blowing it are low. If you got really spooked I think you could try to burrow into the crack itself... though this would certainly not be the easiest way to climb it?

P1 (200', 5.8): Same as Epinephrine: Climb pockets and slab to a bushy ledge. Move into a left-facing corner and continue up through a small roof, up a slab, and up a leaning, right-facing corner to a bolted belay.

P2 (100', 5.7): Almost the same as Epinephrine: Climb up a deep chimney but instead of busting out right onto the face halfway up, continue up the chimney moving up and left to a bolted anchor below the Black Tower.

P3/4 (200', 5.7): Climb a long pitch (or two) wandering up and left around the corner to the left side of the Black Tower. Belay off gear below the ominous crack above.

P5/6 (150-200', 5.9): Chickenwing and face climb the unprotected wide crack for a long ways... Don't fall. Great footholds and handholds prevent this from becoming what would otherwise be a physical battle. At the 50-foot mark the crack suddenly pinches down a bit and a 9" cam can provide much-needed protection. A bit further the crack narrows again and a #5 Camalot will fit. Shortly thereafter more conventional cams work. Belay on any number of rounded ledges above the meat of the climbing or just keep going on much easier ground to the top of the Black Tower.

Location

The crack that forms the left side of the Black Tower, opposite Epinephrine.

Protection

1 each small to #5 Camalot.
2 each 0.5 to #2 Camalot.
1x Valley Giant 9 or Merlin 8 or similar large cam.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments