Type: Trad, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave and Jennifer Wonderly 1990
Page Views: 38,512 total · 219/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2004 with improvements by Dan Petty
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This fine route climbs up and along the lip of a huge roof on the right side of Black Velvet wall. Sustained climbing on excellent varnish. Every pitch is classic.

P1) 5.9. Start at some scoopy dishes 50' right of Prince of Darkness. Climb up past 3 bolts, then traverse right along horizontal features past 2 more bolts. Very nice rock and moves. A couple cams can be used in an easy crack at the top of the pitch. Bolted rap anchor.

P2) 5.9. Climb a low angle crack into a chimney. Good rock, bolted rap anchor. This pitch is 60' or so and ends on a small but flat ledge. (These first two pitches are shared with The Gobbler.)

P3) 5.10- PG. Climb up to a bolt, then traverse right around a small right facing dihedral. Clip another bolt and continue right. There may be another bolt on this pitch (memory lapse), but at any rate, there are good gear placements. You basically traverse right along the lip of the huge roof on positive holds. It is exciting for both leader and follower, but not dangerous. If you fell though, you could go over the roof and would need to climb the rope to get back on. This pitch is 120' or so and ends at a bolted anchor. Sweet.

P4) 5.10+. The crux pitch climbs straight up on immaculate varnish. There are two bolts low on the pitch, which can be supplemented by wires and TCUs. The first crux is a little further on and is protected by thin gear. There is also a tricky move up higher at the third and final bolt. Another classic pitch. 150' to hanging belay with rap anchor.

P5) 5.10. This pitch climbs straight up past bolts. No gear placements to speak of, so the bolts are a little closer together. 150' to rap anchors.

P6) More face climbing, more bolts.

P7) a shorter bolted pitch ends on Turkey Ledge.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes. Make sure to stay left of the huge roof on pitch 3.

Protection

mostly thin, to 2". Quickdraws.

Photos