Fiddler on the Roof
Avg: 3.6 from 106 votes
Routes in Black Velvet Wall
|American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X|
|Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Dave and Jennifer Wonderly 1990|
|Page Views:||33,277 total, 212/month|
|Shared By:||AJ on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis fine route climbs up and along the lip of a huge roof on the right side of Black Velvet wall. Sustained climbing on excellent varnish. Every pitch is classic.
P1) 5.9. Start at some scoopy dishes 50' right of Prince of Darkness. Climb up past 3 bolts, then traverse right along horizontal features past 2 more bolts. Very nice rock and moves. A couple cams can be used in an easy crack at the top of the pitch. Bolted rap anchor.
P2) 5.9. Climb a low angle crack into a chimney. Good rock, bolted rap anchor. This pitch is 60' or so and ends on a small but flat ledge. (These first two pitches are shared with The Gobbler.)
P3) 5.10- PG. Climb up to a bolt, then traverse right around a small right facing dihedral. Clip another bolt and continue right. There may be another bolt on this pitch (memory lapse), but at any rate, there are good gear placements. You basically traverse right along the lip of the huge roof on positive holds. It is exciting for both leader and follower, but not dangerous. If you fell though, you could go over the roof and would need to climb the rope to get back on. This pitch is 120' or so and ends at a bolted anchor. Sweet.
P4) 5.10+. The crux pitch climbs straight up on immaculate varnish. There are two bolts low on the pitch, which can be supplemented by wires and TCUs. The first crux is a little further on and is protected by thin gear. There is also a tricky move up higher at the third and final bolt. Another classic pitch. 150' to hanging belay with rap anchor.
P5) 5.10. This pitch climbs straight up past bolts. No gear placements to speak of, so the bolts are a little closer together. 150' to rap anchors.
P6) More face climbing, more bolts.
P7) a shorter bolted pitch ends on Turkey Ledge.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes. Make sure to stay left of the huge roof on pitch 3.