Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Richard Harrison & Wendell Broussard|
|Page Views:||1,688 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Chad Umbel on Mar 27, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionVelveeta is a nice variation off of Sour Mash. The 4th pitch is the crux of the route with a nice 90 degree corner that is plumb vertical to slightly overhanging.
LocationStart on Sour Mash and break right out to a lone bolt after you get to the ledge just below the third pitches' anchor and belay. Then climb up and right (5.9) with decent small stoppers and brass to protect the moderately thin face. Continue climbing up and right toward the obvious left facing corner which marks the routes crux pitch. Watch out for loose rock. This part is easy but run out. The rest of the route protects well.
Belay just below the dihedral off of a gear anchor. Sort of funky anchor pro if you don't have a 4 inch Camalot. There is some tatt on the right side of the corner, but it looks very old and supect. Climb straight up the beutiful corner until you see a bolt to the left. Catch a rest then bust out left and then back right (5.11) to gain the next belay which is semi-hanging off of decent bolts but bad webbing. This corner is the money pitch, with a really cool crux that protects with the bolt which was placed on lead by Harrison.
Once settled in at the belay with big air below you, crank some steep hard moves right off of the belay (5.10+) with an old suspect quarter inch bolt for pro to gain easy ground for the rest of the pitch. Continue up the obvious crack with face holds until it's possible to break out right onto a right leaning ramp. Climb this then go right again up to a slung scrub oak. We belayed on a nicer ledge to the right off of good cams.
After a few beers, scramble out right to the base of the elephants' trunk on epi. and rapp off of the fixed rope that's threaded through some rock to the left of the trunk, although it's possible to climb up to the top of the trunk and rap from bolts. Continue rappeling down the epineprhine chimneys and scramble back to your pack at the base of Sour Mash.
Nice route Wendell and Richard!
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