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Routes in Black Velvet Wall

American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Richard Harrison & Wendell Broussard
Page Views: 1,637 total, 13/month
Shared By: chad umbel on Mar 27, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Velveeta is a nice variation off of Sour Mash. The 4th pitch is the crux of the route with a nice 90 degree corner that is plumb vertical to slightly overhanging.

Location

Start on Sour Mash and break right out to a lone bolt after you get to the ledge just below the third pitches' anchor and belay. Then climb up and right (5.9) with decent small stoppers and brass to protect the moderately thin face. Continue climbing up and right toward the obvious left facing corner which marks the routes crux pitch. Watch out for loose rock. This part is easy but run out. The rest of the route protects well.

Belay just below the dihedral off of a gear anchor. Sort of funky anchor pro if you don't have a 4 inch Camalot. There is some tatt on the right side of the corner, but it looks very old and supect. Climb straight up the beutiful corner until you see a bolt to the left. Catch a rest then bust out left and then back right (5.11) to gain the next belay which is semi-hanging off of decent bolts but bad webbing. This corner is the money pitch, with a really cool crux that protects with the bolt which was placed on lead by Harrison.

Once settled in at the belay with big air below you, crank some steep hard moves right off of the belay (5.10+) with an old suspect quarter inch bolt for pro to gain easy ground for the rest of the pitch. Continue up the obvious crack with face holds until it's possible to break out right onto a right leaning ramp. Climb this then go right again up to a slung scrub oak. We belayed on a nicer ledge to the right off of good cams.

After a few beers, scramble out right to the base of the elephants' trunk on epi. and rapp off of the fixed rope that's threaded through some rock to the left of the trunk, although it's possible to climb up to the top of the trunk and rap from bolts. Continue rappeling down the epineprhine chimneys and scramble back to your pack at the base of Sour Mash.

Nice route Wendell and Richard!

Protection

Single set of cams to #3 camalot, single set of stoppers and offsets including small brass, and two 60 meter ropes.

Photos

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Josh Janes    
 
I'd say solid 11d now. Jan 19, 2012
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
Heard a rumor that this is now about 11+/12-. Dec 17, 2010
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
 
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
 
sorry, my mom gave me a lot of milk when i was little... and cookies are good...

IMO: I felt PG-13 may be more accurate than R and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the bolt protecting the final pitch crux Sep 7, 2010
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
While following the crux corner pitch, my partner broke the crux hold. Still climbable, but probably harder now. Sep 7, 2010