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Routes in Black Velvet Wall

American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 550 ft, 5 pitches
FA: George and Joanne Urioste, Mike Ward, Bill Bradley
Page Views: 12,168 total, 78/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Feb 14, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Yellow Brick Road is more of a 2 pitch variation to Dream of Wild Turkerys. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of DOWT. Pitch 1- 5.6, Pitch 2- 5.8. On pitch 3 you will start the pitch the same as you would for DOWT. About 30ft into the pitch you will reach the rightward traverse for DOWT, instead of traversing, continue straight up the crack(at first) then follow the obvious line of bolts to a hanging belay- 5.10b. Historical note- there is a metal plaque bolted to the wall where these 2 routes diverge, it tells you which way to go! Pitch 4 follows another line of bolts above the belay. Continue up until reaching a small ledge, the belay here is shared with DOWT- 5.10a. Pitch 5 follow the left-facing flake to its top, passing several bolts, then traverse back left(bolts) to gain a crack. Follow this crack up approx 20 ft to a "scooped" ledge on the left. From here you can either continue up DOWT or rappel using anchors on DOWT, and the Gobbler. Bring 2 ropes if you choose to rap.

Protection

A standard rack to a #1 camalot will suffice.

Photos

Andrew Stemmler
Springfield, MO
  5.10b
Andrew Stemmler   Springfield, MO
  5.10b
This was a great variation on DOWT. Slimmed down the rack over DOWT too! we took doubles up to #1 camalot and 14 draws. This was plenty! Climbing was never super difficult 10.b tops and was pretty quick and easy. Only took about 2.5 hours to top out on the 6th pitch before rapping. Our rap sequence was from the top of the 6th (which is the 7th on DOWT) down to the top of 4 (pitch 5 on DOWT). Then down only a single pith on the yellow brick road to the top of 3. Next down and rappelers right to the 2nd pitch of the gobbler and one last rap to the ground. We would have been up and down in about 3 hours but on the very first rap we got our ropes snagged because I was trying to do a biner block due to our tag line being much smaller in diameter than our lead line (7.3mm). Luckily there was a party coming up DOWT so we waited for them to complete the last 4 pitches of their climb to unstick our ropes (thanks BTW. We totally owe you guys beers!). Thank god we got stuck on the first rappel where there was a ledge waiting for us because if we would have been stranded for another 3 hours at a hanging belay instead of that ledge I don't know what I would have done. anyway after our ropes were freed we rapped down the rest of the route without the use of a biner block (rope migration wasn't an issue anyway) and touched down to solid ground. by this point we were pretty hungry because we spent 3 more hours on route than planned and were eager to eat our cashews and granola bars. Turns out some desert rodent snuck into our bag and ate all our our food and replaced it with literal turds. the desert is a cruel place. talk about insult to injury... May 25, 2017
Ball
Oakridge, OR
5.10b
Ball   Oakridge, OR
5.10b
Chris, you may want to climb in Tuolumne before claiming to know the YDS. RR is all over the place. FWIW the 2nd climb I did in RR I misheard my partner and afterwards said "Yeah, that felt 10b" to which he replied "10b? It's 11b!" whaaat? Oct 18, 2015
chris morgan
las vegas, NV
  5.10d PG13
chris morgan   las vegas, NV
  5.10d PG13
Just did yellow brick road for the first time. Great route but I have climbed easier 10d's and some 11a's at the red than that crux...maybe something broke or it got polished bc it was not feeling like a 10c. May 18, 2014
fun route but compare dis "10b" to "10c nirvana @ suicide" no move harder den 5.9 Oct 9, 2011
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Thanks, John. I do not advocate yellow bolts, but I thought it was an interesting piece of history about the route. I wish I had taken some photos of it back then! May 18, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
George- I believe YBR got its bolts replaced along with the majority of the other routes on the wall back when the ASCA was able to get a power drilling permit for Red Rock- Greg left the plaque for historical reasons, but otherwise all of George's original bolts got replaced with bolts that would actually hold a fall! May 18, 2011
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The original bolts on this route were painted yellow. From the photos, it appears that this is no longer true.

Description should include descent info: Click your heels together three times while chanting "there's no place like Vegas." May 17, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Did Gobbler and linked it with Yellow Brick Road and DoWT. After doing the "reverse traverse" on DoWT, we built an anchor by the plaque where DoWT and Yellow Brick Road split. P1 of Yellow Brick Road is sweet. Very sustained and fun climbing. P2 of YBR was significantly easier. Oct 12, 2009
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
This route was fantastic.

I almost got sandbagged into leaving all of the gear at the 2nd set of anchors and just climbing on draws. After the first two gear pitches. A set of 14 draws, stoppers and small TCUs should get you through the upper pitches, which were AWESOME! Do this route now. Apr 30, 2008
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Awesome route. I found there to be one very distinct crux on the third pitch (P1 of YBR). I went into this expecting more crack climbing; in reality this is almost entirely a face climb, a super fun very well-protected one at that. Nov 27, 2006
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
Hey Doug....I think you meant Picture not topo....and I'll refer you to comment number 1...... Nov 7, 2005
Doug Bruce
  5.10b
Doug Bruce  
  5.10b
The topo actually shows the belays for "Dream of Wild Turkeys". Pitch 3 goes straight up from from the belay at the end of Pitch 2. The belay for the end of Pitch 4 is where the Pitch 5 belay for DoWT comes back left.Another thing that might be useful to quick visitors like we were, is that you drop into the wash when the trail splits and stay there until towards the end of the of the short wall below Black Velvet Wall itself. The Supertopo guide -although providing great topos - is a bit confusing and bemusing in this regard, whereas the Falcon guide is much clearer.Overall a fantastic place to be: I'll be back to do the Prince of Darkness the next time I am in North America. Oct 5, 2005
Edward Jenner
  5.10b
Edward Jenner  
  5.10b
My first (and only) route on this wall, and it was super fun. Maybe less stars compared to others - I wouldn't know.

The third pitch, although not hard, is long. I found that I was shaking out my legs rather than my arms, and after pulling through the slightly harder moves that mark the crux I was ready to get to the anchors. None of the other pitches are nearly as sustained, so after this pitch, the next one will seem short and quite easy. Mar 29, 2005
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
In the photo above Yellow Brick Road connect's the 2 and the 5. Feb 21, 2005