Avg: 3.1 from 106 votes
Routes in Black Velvet Wall
|American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X|
|Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||J&J Urioste, B Bradley, M Ward, 7/'80|
|Page Views:||6,981 total, 42/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Feb 20, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a fun and interesting climb that is more often used as an approach pitch to Fiddler On The Roof or Dream of Wild Turkeys than it is climbed for its own merit, but I thought it was a fun route deserving of it's own attention.
To locate this route, start at the base of the shared start of 'Prince Of Darkness' & 'Dream Of Wild Turkeys'. Walk to the right 40' and look up a line of two bolts in light-colored rock.
P1: (5.9, 100') Climb up and past these two bolts, then go sharply right for some distance until below another 2 bolts, and ultimately below a hanging, white, acute dihedral/chimney, overhead. Climb up past those bolts to a good ledge at the bottom of the chimney/dihedral.
P2: (5.10a, 70') Climb up into the right-leaning corner and slot, making your way up slowly on trad gear and passing one bolt on the way to a ledge at the top. I remember placing a thin nut or two somewhere on this pitch. Belay at the ledge on a fixed anchor, or clip it and continue on P3. This is also the departing point for Fiddler on the Roof, which climbs out on the face to the right, above the huge roof now just at your right.
P3: (5.9, 60') Climb up the steep face on big holds to the fixed anchors as for the 3rd pitch of Dream of Wild Turkeys.
To descend, rap to the anchor on P2, then do a long double-rope rap to the ground from there. 60M ropes may be necessary for this descent, but I am not sure. This will prevent the rock from 'gobbling' your rope on the way down and is also one of the most exposed raps you may ever do, under the belly of Fiddler On the Roof.