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Routes in Black Velvet Wall

American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 340 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, Randal Grandstaff, Dave Diegleman 1981
Page Views: 1,646 total, 36/month
Shared By: Mostafa Noori on Feb 18, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a great route surrounded by many classics.

Pitch 1: 160' 5.10d Take the thin line placing ok pro until you reach a good ledge for your first bomber cam. Continue to the corner and follow that up to an anchor on the right at the base of nice crack.

Pitch 2: 180' 5.10a This pitch has everything from good'ol red rock crimps to fist jams. Take the right splitter hand crack. At about three quarters of the way up begin to use the twin cracks. Make your way up and left to an anchor. Careful going to the anchor there is loose rock.

Descent: 2 double rope rappels

Location

Far Left side of Black Velvet Wall between Spark Plug/Cutting Edge and Refried Brains. Just right of a leaning obelisk.

Protection

Single Rack to #3, Double .4-1, RP's (Optional Extra: .4 and 2)

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
Two absolutely classic Red Rock pitches, both full value and memorable! Another route that could clean up from some more traffic. Bring your RPs, especially the small ones! May 5, 2017
-robin-
  5.10
-robin-  
  5.10
Excellent Route, deserves far more traffic! First pitch is techy and the second pitch a bit burly, the perfect mix. Someone oughta put a route on the varnished face above the first anchor, it looks so neat, maybe next time... Beware the right hand finish, its a bit snappy, and the ledge doesn't offer anything inspiring for a solid anchor(ah, red rocks, how I missed you)instead take the left crack(as suggested by the OP, but Handren's description is a bit fuzzy) to the ledge and belay and rap from there. Mar 13, 2014
Cimbing Ivy
bay area, CA
 
Cimbing Ivy   bay area, CA
 
what an awesome climb! 2nd pitch is as good as Creek's Blue Sun with similar leaning twin cracks and left dihedral finish. in a way it feels harder than Blue Sun due to lack-of-traffic looseness. Feb 24, 2014
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Great lead. I remember climbing the first pitch only and thinking it was quite heady. There was an old white sling stuffed in a crack that I clipped into as pro but I could not tell how it was being held in the crack. Slick as snot rock as I recall, reminiscent of Alcohol Wall. Never climbed the second pitch. Nice write up! Feb 19, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
a #1 brassie?! Dude, talk about some brass! nice work! Feb 19, 2014
Mostafa Noori
Fresno, CA
 
Mostafa Noori   Fresno, CA
 
Took my first fall on passive gear on this thing and it was a HB Brass Offset #1! Good Times. Feb 19, 2014