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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance)

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13


 Avg: 2 from 1 vote

Routes in Black Velvet Wall

American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Richard Harrison, Jay Smith (The Flesh), Jordy Morgan, Kevin Fosberg (American Ghostdance)
Page Views: 5,099 total, 64/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on May 25, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Description general:
This route is an amalgam of two older routes on Black Velvet wall combined into a less difficult line. The route described here avoids the first 5.12 a pitch of American Ghostdance and combines the easier pitches of both routes into a more moderate grade of 5.10b/c. The route offers an alternate to the extremely crowded routes directly to the right (Prince of Darkness, Dreams of Wild Turkeys). The upper pitch (s) of the route are bold but not in the league of boldness of Rock Warrior.

Pitch description:

Pitch 1 – 5.9 130 feet: Climb the first pitch of Refried brains to the chains – a beautiful crack line. At the top of this pitch either belay or continue up the next pitch to its belay.
Pitch 2 – 5.10a/b 70 feet: Step right under the small roof and turn it on the right. Climb the crack and face past a bolt to a curving ledge. Put in your own belay here with some small to medium camming units.
Pitch 3 – 5.10a/b 180 feet: Move to the right, place gear in the small left facing corner then move easily across the face to the right to join the second pitch of American Ghostdance at the 3rd bolt. Clip the bolt, climb the thin varnish (crux) to another bolt then go straight up on easier terrain with natural protection past a few small plants all the way to the big ledge to the right of the large right facing corner. No established belay exists here so you will need to build your own.
Pitch 4 – 5.10 120 feet: From the ledge you can see a bolt about 30 feet up and slightly right – climb carefully but easily to this bolt. Follow the well spaced bolt line that curves out right then back left to the belay passing a total of 5 (6?) bolts. No natural gear is available except a wire near the first bolt. This is classic, exposed, spicy Black Velvet Wall climbing. Unfortunately all the bolts are rusty ¼ inch original gear. The belay is also old bolts that we backed up with two good wired stoppers.
Pitch 5 etc– Appears to be more of the same as pitch 4. (We chose to climb left into Refried brains so we could rappel safely.)

Location

Approach – Walk into the Black Velvet wall, traverse left along the wall under the huge boulder to the crack that marks the start of Refried brains. The route takes the first pitch of Refried brains and then wanders up the wall to the right of that route.
Descent – Climb all the way to the top and walk off or traverse left to Refried brains and rappel off (2 ropes).

Protection

Single set of cams to 3 inches including some microcams and wires.
Thinking outside the box-nice job, Tim. Interesting line, makes me want to check this one out! Oct 31, 2011