All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Black Velvet Ca… > Black Velvet Wall

The Fiddler Roof

Name: The Fiddler Roof
Rating: 3.6

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Black Velvet Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Dream of Ultraviolet Unicorns T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hybrid Drive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Johnny Come Lately S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Old Fashioned T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prince of Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 185 ft (56 m)
GPS:	36.03518, -115.46652
FA:	Dan Goodwin and Joanne Urioste, Jun 1981
Page Views:	6,464 total · 39/month
Shared By:	Matt Kuehl on Jan 11, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

A good climb with some wide climbing, sure to be added to the list of classic cragging routes in Black Velvet.

P1. 5.10+. 75'. Single .3-5 (optional extra 5)
Climb the clean wide crack, assisted by some crimps. This maxes out at 10a until the roof. Place a finger sized cam or 2 over the roof on the left side, and pull the roof (crux). All of the holds are trustworthy, and the gear is good. Good gear and jams to the bolted anchor.

P2. 5.10+, 110'. Single to 3, triples 4 and 5. Though the crack is wide, the climbing is not. The pitch is characterized by good cams, and liebacking. The longer the runouts the easier the climbing. Belay from a comfortable stance at a bolted belay.

A single 70m rope will get you to the first anchor of Overhanging Hangover, and then down. It is best to rack up at the base and scramble up to the start of the climb as you do not rappel back to that ledge.