Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dan Goodwin, Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 2,532 total · 32/month
Shared By: Matt Kuehl on Jan 11, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A good climb with some wide climbing, sure to be added to the list of classic cragging routes in Black Velvet.

P1. 5.10+. 75'. Single .3-5 (optional extra 5)
Climb the clean wide crack, assisted by some crimps. This maxes out at 10a until the roof.  Place a finger sized cam or 2 over the roof on the left side, and pull the roof (crux).  All of the holds are trustworthy, and the gear is good.  Good gear and jams to the bolted anchor.

P2. 5.10+, 110'. Single to 3, triples 4 and 5.  Though the crack is wide, the climbing is not.  The pitch is characterized by good cams, and liebacking.  The longer the runouts the easier the climbing.  Belay from a comfortable stance at a bolted belay.  

A single 70m rope will get you to the first anchor of Overhanging Hangover, and then down.   It is best to rack up at the base and scramble up to the start of the climb as you do not rappel back to that ledge.

Location

Between Fiddler and Overhanging Hangover. Scramble up some 3rd/4th class ramps to reach a ledge on the left side of a dark varnished pillar.

Protection

Single rack to BD #3, 2-3each #4-#5. 

Photos

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