Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 11 pitches, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,016 total · 28/month
Shared By: RKM on Dec 12, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Not claiming any first ascent here - just another way of climbing some of the best pitches on Black Velvet Wall in one push. This also lets you pass crowds. We have done the wall twice this way. Once to combine 'best' pitches, and another time to pass parties on both Prince and Turkeys.

These ascents were back in the 80's, just after Yellow Brick Road was put up.

Start on Gobbler and do these three unbelievable pitches up to the big ledge on DOWT.

Climb back left and up to (run out to lessen rope drag) the bolts on Yellow Brick Road and do the two steep pitches of this climb.

Next, move left again (about 10') and do the last two pitches of Prince of Darkness to it's logical top.

From here follow up the last four pitches of DOWT to it's top (eleven or twelve pitches total).

Not sure why people would rap from the top of pitch seven on DOWT and call it climbing the route - but most seem to.

This gives you an eleven or twelve pitch climb, moves from the right to left, and therefore straight up the wall, and combines the best and hardest pitches of four existing routes climbing the entire Black Velvet Wall.

Location

Start with Gobbler and end on the real top of DOWT.

Protection

Plenty of draws, a rack of stoppers and a couple of (probably several) mid size friends.

Photos

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