Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Black Velvet Wall
|American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X|
|Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 1100 ft, 11 pitches, Grade V|
|Page Views:||1,353 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||RKM on Dec 12, 2013|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionNot claiming any first ascent here - just another way of climbing some of the best pitches on Black Velvet Wall in one push. This also lets you pass crowds. We have done the wall twice this way. Once to combine 'best' pitches, and another time to pass parties on both Prince and Turkeys.
These ascents were back in the 80's, just after Yellow Brick Road was put up.
Start on Gobbler and do these three unbelievable pitches up to the big ledge on DOWT.
Climb back left and up to (run out to lessen rope drag) the bolts on Yellow Brick Road and do the two steep pitches of this climb.
Next, move left again (about 10') and do the last two pitches of Prince of Darkness to it's logical top.
From here follow up the last four pitches of DOWT to it's top (eleven or twelve pitches total).
Not sure why people would rap from the top of pitch seven on DOWT and call it climbing the route - but most seem to.
This gives you an eleven or twelve pitch climb, moves from the right to left, and therefore straight up the wall, and combines the best and hardest pitches of four existing routes climbing the entire Black Velvet Wall.
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