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Routes in Black Velvet Wall

American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 11 pitches, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,353 total, 28/month
Shared By: RKM on Dec 12, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Not claiming any first ascent here - just another way of climbing some of the best pitches on Black Velvet Wall in one push. This also lets you pass crowds. We have done the wall twice this way. Once to combine 'best' pitches, and another time to pass parties on both Prince and Turkeys.

These ascents were back in the 80's, just after Yellow Brick Road was put up.

Start on Gobbler and do these three unbelievable pitches up to the big ledge on DOWT.

Climb back left and up to (run out to lessen rope drag) the bolts on Yellow Brick Road and do the two steep pitches of this climb.

Next, move left again (about 10') and do the last two pitches of Prince of Darkness to it's logical top.

From here follow up the last four pitches of DOWT to it's top (eleven or twelve pitches total).

Not sure why people would rap from the top of pitch seven on DOWT and call it climbing the route - but most seem to.

This gives you an eleven or twelve pitch climb, moves from the right to left, and therefore straight up the wall, and combines the best and hardest pitches of four existing routes climbing the entire Black Velvet Wall.

Location

Start with Gobbler and end on the real top of DOWT.

Protection

Plenty of draws, a rack of stoppers and a couple of (probably several) mid size friends.

Photos

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Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b/c
Crazy that I just noticed this after 2 years.
That's good. I like Gobbling the dream of the yellow turkey or just Gobbling the Yellow Turkey. Uses the names of the original FA but Kim can call it whatever he wants.
This is another nice combo. As Kim suggests, many of us did this combo right after these lines were established in the mid 1980's - I think before Fiddler existed and when there were signs on the rock indicating all the different lines. At that time most of the new bolted routes were pick and choose what combination you wanted for the day. Definitely different than anywhere I had ever climbed but new things were occurring in climbing and I was no one to judge and had a lot of fun with this new bolting of blank walls and signs telling me where to go. (This was about the time when there were climbing wars - bolt chopping, hate mail and debates over hanging on a bolt - hang dogging - we never moved up after a fall, never felt the higher holds as that was cheating - we always lowered, pulled the rope and started from the very bottom). But these routes were new and visionary up sweeps of stunning rock that could not be safely climbed without a lot of bolts. So few people were climbing here that few cared or got their tits in a wringer (well, maybe Rock Warrior ethics suggests otherwise). You would climb up, follow a sign in Yellow (Yellow brick road), Red (Dreams) or Black (Prince of darkness) with no idea of the grade. There was no guide book for these bolting lines and no internet and no one in the canyon for days at a time so it was still adventure climbing. All these combinations used to be marked at the junctions with road maps that have long since been chopped (now we just have a smart phone that does the same and in some ways makes it even less adventure given all the data available). I posted a photo of one of those signs on this site years ago. Sep 29, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Gobbling the Dream of the Yellow Turkey Aug 26, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
I thought of this link-up before and wanted to call it "The Velvet Sea." Not saying that I was the first to think of it, but just giving my two cents for a name. Mar 13, 2014
Tim Wolfe has been doing some linkups like this in Velvet over the last couple of years. A better name than the one posted might follow Tim's method and be "The Yellow Dark Turkey" or something like that. Either way, you guys are thinking outside the box and that's fun, Dec 23, 2013
Interesting mix of pitches. I wonder if a couple mid sized friends is what most people will use on pitch 2 of the Gobbler. Sounds like sandbaggery to me. Agree on climbing only first few on Dream being lame sauce if you're claiming an ascent. The first half is just cragging :) Dec 14, 2013