Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Danny Meyers - 1987
Page Views: 6,165 total · 44/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 6, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route takes an amazing right-trending dike feature across the far left side of the Black Velvet Wall. Approach it by scrambling up along the base of the wall, past the start of Refried Brains and a large boulder and a smaller boulder leaning against the wall. Begin on a two foot high pedestal at the base of a perfect finger crack in a corner.

Climb up via perfect locks to a ledge and no-hands rest. Place some small gear here (a blue and red Alien are perfect), then begin the very long, very pumpy rising hand traverse. Initially climb up to a good stance at a large pod that accepts a #3 Camalot, then continue hand traversing to another slot that accepts bomber finger sized gear, and finally punch it past three widely-spaced bolts to the anchor. Kinda scary with all the heelhooking over your rope and star drive bolts, but a completely unique feature for Red Rocks.

Protection

Three or four yellow TCU sized pieces and two or three 0.5 Camalots for the initial crack (save one or two for the final gear placement on the traverse). A tiny piece (blue Alien or purple TCU), A #3 Camalot, a 0.5 Camalot, and three draws are all you need for the business. The 3 bolts are old star drives which do not inspire confidence, but they appear to be in good shape.

Photos

Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c PG13
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c PG13
Took a good tumbling fall today at about the worst place, just before the second bolt on the traverse. Bolts are fine. ;) Should have read closer, "Well spaced bolts". Mar 31, 2012
Final anchors on this didn't inspire confidence. 1 wiggly + 1 star drive. May 26, 2016
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
 
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
 
Super nice route but all the bolt are spinning and the anchors need to be replace.
Must do pitch :) Apr 22, 2017
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
 
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
 
vimeo.com/214904598 Apr 30, 2017
This route has all new, solid gear. Jul 4, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11c
This truly is an awesome, pumpy route. The protection is good but the bolts are widely spaced. Gotta punch it! A great 00 C3 protects getting into the flake and a #3 soon after is confidence inspiring as you punch it to the first bolt. Classic pitch for RR. Nov 1, 2017