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Cutting Edge
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 19
votes
Routes in Black Velvet Wall
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A Dream of Ultraviolet Unicorns T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hybrid Drive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Johnny Come Lately S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Old Fashioned T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prince of Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| GPS: | 36.03518, -115.46652 |
| FA: | Danny Meyers - 1987 |
| Page Views: | 10,101 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on May 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This route takes an amazing right-trending dike feature across the far left side of the Black Velvet Wall. Approach it by scrambling up along the base of the wall, past the start of Refried Brains and a large boulder and a smaller boulder leaning against the wall. Begin on a two foot high pedestal at the base of a perfect finger crack in a corner.
Climb up via perfect locks to a ledge and no-hands rest. Place some small gear here (a blue and red Alien are perfect), then begin the very long, very pumpy rising hand traverse. Initially climb up to a good stance at a large pod that accepts a #3 Camalot, then continue hand traversing to another slot that accepts bomber finger sized gear, and finally punch it past three widely-spaced bolts to the anchor. Kinda scary with all the heelhooking over your rope and star drive bolts, but a completely unique feature for Red Rocks.
Protection
Three or four yellow TCU sized pieces and two or three 0.5 Camalots for the initial crack (save one or two for the final gear placement on the traverse). A tiny piece (blue Alien or purple TCU), A #3 Camalot, a 0.5 Camalot, and three draws are all you need for the business. The 3 bolts are old star drives which do not inspire confidence, but they appear to be in good shape.
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