Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jorge and Joanne Urioste, Dan Goodwin
Page Views: 13,882 total · 75/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Apr 22, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This two pitch gem finishes through the right side of the giant roof between Fiddler on the Roof and Sour Mash. A great day ender.From the bench at the base of the Black Velvet Wall, under the right side of the roof (base of Sour Mash), scramble up and left (3rd class) to belay at a bush. Pitch 1 goes up and right from here, following a line of bolts (with supplemental gear) to a two bolt anchor. Continuous balancy edging, a super pitch.Pitch two goes up and right again, up a crack and out through the huge roof (3 bolts), to a two bolt rap anchor.The size of the roof makes the .10a grade seem dubious, but have faith. Super position and exposure for a two pitch route!A 200ft rap brings you back to the top of the 3rd class, WATCH THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES! Not sure about single rope rappel option?NOTES: A)You could continue up Fiddler on the Roof, this start would bypass the scary roof traverse on that route.B)This route is described in the Supertopo guidebook, but not the Swain book. However, it may be aka Early Times, or share ground with that route.

Protection

Mostly bolts, but take a rack to about a #1 camalot. Two 60M ropes to rap.

Photos