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Routes in Black Velvet Wall
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A Dream of Ultraviolet Unicorns T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hybrid Drive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Johnny Come Lately S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Old Fashioned T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prince of Darkness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.03518, -115.46652 |
| FA: | Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison, and Shelby Shelton - 1990 |
| Page Views: | 5,708 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This phenomenal route has fallen into obscurity - perhaps due to lack of information - but it should not be missed by those interested in something more unusual and difficult than the standard Black Velvet fare.
P1-3: Climb the first 3 pitches of Sour Mash, but instead of belaying on the comfy ledge below pitch 4, move right to an equally spacious ledge with a single cold shut bolt. This ledge is a little ways below the standard belay ledge.
P4: Notice the two attractive, left-facing corners far above you. Velveeta takes the right hand corner and My Little Pony takes the left hand. Climb up and right with reasonable, but spaced, protection for a long pitch to a good belay ledge below the corner.
P5: Climb the beautiful varnished corner, passing a single bolt (crux - a wonderful stemming sequence) to an uncomfortable belay on the right hand wall. I can't remember exactly what this belay consisted of but I remember it being less than ideal. 5.11d, 80'.
P6: Continue up the corner (which eventually changes aspects) until reaching a roof and very steep rock - pull through this to an exposed stretch of climbing and a belay at two bolts on a narrow ledge. This pitch has some junky rock but is outrageously good. 5.11, 100'.
P7: Finish by climbing up a long crack with ample face holds to a terrace above and to the left of the Black Tower. Traverse to and rappel down Epi with two ropes.
Protection
A single set of cams from blue Alien to #3 Camalot, wires (include a few offsets and larger RP's). Two ropes for a safe descent. It is possible to rap down the route with a single 70m rope, but you'll need quicklinks for the bolted anchor and extra tat for the anchor above the crux pitch.
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