Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison, and Shelby Shelton - 1990
Page Views: 2,530 total · 30/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This phenomenal route has fallen into obscurity - perhaps due to lack of information - but it should not be missed by those interested in something more unusual and difficult than the standard Black Velvet fare.

P1-3: Climb the first 3 pitches of Sour Mash, but instead of belaying on the comfy ledge below pitch 4, move right to an equally spacious ledge with a single cold shut bolt. This ledge is a little ways below the standard belay ledge.

P4: Notice the two attractive, left-facing corners far above you. Velveeta takes the right hand corner and My Little Pony takes the left hand. Climb up and right with reasonable, but spaced, protection for a long pitch to a good belay ledge below the corner.

P5: Climb the beautiful varnished corner, passing a single bolt (crux - a wonderful stemming sequence) to an uncomfortable belay on the right hand wall. I can't remember exactly what this belay consisted of but I remember it being less than ideal. 5.11d, 80'.

P6: Continue up the corner (which eventually changes aspects) until reaching a roof and very steep rock - pull through this to an exposed stretch of climbing and a belay at two bolts on a narrow ledge. This pitch has some junky rock but is outrageously good. 5.11, 100'.

P7: Finish by climbing up a long crack with ample face holds to a terrace above and to the left of the Black Tower. Traverse to and rappel down Epi with two ropes.

Protection

A single set of cams from blue Alien to #3 Camalot, wires (include a few offsets and larger RP's). Two ropes for a safe descent. It is possible to rap down the route with a single 70m rope, but you'll need quicklinks for the bolted anchor and extra tat for the anchor above the crux pitch.

Photos

I think this one and Velveeta had independant starts that have been pretty much forgotten. Bet the hardware on this one could use updating. Jan 19, 2012