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Routes in Black Velvet Wall

American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny Come Lately S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Richard Harrison, Jay Smith, Nick Nordblom
Page Views: 15,379 total · 106/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up easy white rock until you reach the obvious, rightward traverse at a slab. This is not to hard but very runout. Traverse much farther than you'd think until directly below the obvious(and good) bolts leading to the bolted anchor. 5.10R.

Pitch 2: continue up varnished rock passing the occasional bolt. You will get occasional gear to supplement the bolts, but you must be crafty and attentive.Following the bolts is your best bet for locating the proper route(this goes fro all pitch's!)...look closely. Belay at 2 bolts 5.10.

Pitch 3: More of the same...follow well spaced bolts and occasional gear to a 2 bolt anchor, 5.10-R-.

Pitch 4: Yep...same stuff only this one checks in @ 5.9R.

Pitch 5: repeat.

Pitch 6: AhHa! Change! Although ever so slight! Climb the obvious bulge up and left of the belay 5.10-.

At the 2-bolt anchor, signaling the end of this pitch, you can either rap or continue up for several more pitches in the 5.8/5.9 range.
Most people rap. If you rap, consider rapping POD, it is the cleanest section of the wall and greatly reduces the chances of rope problems.

Overall a very good route, very heady....be SURE you can handle this one before trying it!

Protection

1 set nuts, 1 set RPs, 1 set cams from blue Alien to #2 Camalot.
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
Does anyone have beta on Rock Warrior? I have the Swain guide and it's OK, but I'd love to hear some comments on this thing from someone whose done it. Oct 1, 2006
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.10b
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.10b
There is a variation to the first pitch. BUT!!! It is Harder AND more runout.

Instead of going way right continue up to the first obvious bolt on the wall...5.10R+ I believe this is the first bolt for sandstone samarai..instead of going left as for SS, continue straigt up following discontinous cracks. Pay Attention to Gear!! There is very little and what is there is not great. You will climb a crux in the first 60ft that checks in somewhere between 5.10d and 5.11B...and you will be WAY above gear. Follow the cracks until you reach a point where you can traverse right towards what is the first bolt on the 2nd pitch of RW. It's a long traverse and clocks in around 5.10bR. Clip the first bolt then climb to the second...and belay. There are 2 good stoppers down and left of this bolt that make the belay resonable...but they are not obvious. 5.11R/X
This variation is very good climbing, however it's not really recommended. If you want something to tick off and you can handle it...by all means!! But be warned...it's far from safe. Nov 6, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b R
seems like alot of people blow the first pitch- usually by heading up too soon before into the traverse. the bolt you're looking for is about 8' above and 15'-20' left of the POD/DoWT belay.

we didnt use anything bigger than a green camalot on this one- although there was a spot or two for a #1 if you wanted something other than a bomber stopper.

also, for reference, you can rap the upper two pitches with a single 70m line, as well as the bottom two- the middle two, however, are a bit long. oh well! Jun 20, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b R
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b R
The first pitch is hard to figure out and VERY run out. Straight up to two bolts, long traverse -down and right - then straight up. If you blow the top you will deck so be careful.This is the money pitch in terms of having head screwed on. Second pitch is harder but has more gear. Rest is pretty run out with occasional good wire/RP and rare bolt. Jan 20, 2010
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
Todd Gordon and I did what I believe was possibly the second ascent in April 1985. I remember the first two pitches as tricky. We continued to the top of Black Velvet Peak for 15 pitches, many of them after dark. We got down to the car around midnight to find our friend Holly asleep and dinner very cold. She was more annoyed than worried.
It was a long day. Feb 17, 2011
W.S.
Montana
  5.10b R
W.S.   Montana
  5.10b R
Bold! The climbing is not too hard but you're WAY above the gear and the flaky sandstone is less than confidence inspiring. Gear is mostly small and usually lousy. Be on your game! Otherwise it's a very neat section of the wall and pretty cool to climb next to sportos on POD. "What are those guys doing?! Don't they know they're 40ft out?!" As an aside, although the bolts are spaced all are bomber. Apr 1, 2011
Wendell Broussard has a funny story about the 2nd ascent, I'm gonna botch it pretty bad, but the jist is that after Nick, Jay, and Richard came back to town and sat down for beers and tales of adventure with the rest of the crew, everyone started discussing what they were getting on the next day. The consensus seemed to be "aah...maybe just a hike, or some cragging...nothing big like what these guys just put up!"

The next morning, a group of the same "hikers" smoked up the trail to the Velvet Wall, loaded for bear with small gear and brass balls, and spotted some of their buddies from the night before already a couple of pitches up. Their ruse was in common, the alarm clocks just set a LITTLE bit earlier. As Wendell put it, there was heard a great cry across the canyon...."YOOOOOUUUUU.....MOTHERFUCKERS!!!!!!!!"

Classic. I'm not sure of the exact personnel on that 2nd ascent, but I do know they were following chalk from the FA the next morning. Pretty incestuous little social gathering, classic Wendell tale. May 8, 2011
-robin-
  5.10a PG13
-robin-  
  5.10a PG13
Not Runout. There is ample small gear, bring lots of small wires, rp's and hb's protect nicely. This is far better than POD, much more interesting, but I'd recommend skipping the last two pitches, the rock quality diminishes mid P4 and doesn't really improve to make the extra two pitches worth it. Great route! Oct 21, 2012
Tyler Gordon
Durango, CO
 
Tyler Gordon   Durango, CO
 
The first pitch is the only really bad one, otherwise the protection exists and there are plenty of bolts/pitons to keep you on route (for some of the pitons this is their only use). The anchors at the top of pitch 6 can be tricky to find (I'm not sure we even used the right ones), but they are up and around the corner once you reach the ledge.

Great climbing, most of the bolts are in good condition. Nuts are more important than cams on this one, and multiple sets seem to help if you want so sew it up. None of the climbing is super hard, and the wall is like a big playground to run around on (just make sure to find the protection, it's there.) But the funniest part about the route is trying not to laugh as you tap on hollow flakes trying to find pro as the Prince of Darkness people clip bolts as if they were going out of style. Nov 26, 2012
pete cutler
Des Moines, IA
pete cutler   Des Moines, IA
The first pitch is the only scary one. and it is scary. I remember it having slab moves on poor rock with 60 foot ground fall potential. The rest of the route however was kick ass - enough pro to be safe but runout enough to keep your attention and keep the excitement level high

I remember thinking that you could climb the first pitch of Dream of Wild Turkeys and then traverse like 8 feet over the the first bolt on Rock warrior. You skip the dangerous climbing and don't miss any of the good stuff either..

Jan 28, 2013
Pitty
Marbach
  5.11a R
Pitty   Marbach
  5.11a R
cool route...........but the almost hardest (felt) move is the last to the first bolt....ground fall granted ... After the first pitch it is almost sports :-) , every 50 feet a bolt, nice and funny........Gear is there but very small, don't know (and don't want to test it) if it would hold a fall - a 100 feet whipper would be a special experience.... May 19, 2013
Drew Marshall
  5.10b PG13
Drew Marshall  
  5.10b PG13
very runout at a 5.9 level but the 5.10 moves are protected
I'd recommend finding all the bolts on the first pitch before you leave the ground Dec 21, 2013
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
  5.10b R
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
  5.10b R
Rock Warrior was on my list for years. Finally climbed it in January 2015 and lead every pitch while my special lady friend followed. We climbed all six pitches (the last one was not really worth it). Plenty of pro if you know how to look for it. Now just need to man up for Sandstone Samurai!

Way more of an adventure than the bolt ladder of a route known as Prince of Darkness. Jan 27, 2015
Ball
Oakridge, OR
  5.10b PG13
Ball   Oakridge, OR
  5.10b PG13
Excellent route. One of the best I've done at Red Rock.

All the 5.10 moves are protected so I wouldn't call it R, just try to stay on route!

I wouldn't bother with anything larger than a 0.75 C4. If you place tricams, nothing larger than a 0.3 Oct 27, 2015
BouldertoSF
Oakland, CA
BouldertoSF   Oakland, CA
Has anyone linked the last 3 or 4 pitches from the 2 bolt anchor? Nov 11, 2015
Will Wright
  5.10b X
Will Wright  
  5.10b X
Well...finally got the chance to test my mettle on this gem the other day. It's not as 'R' rated as I had hoped...besides the 60 foot free solo starting the first pitch. It's a little unnerving with the down palming, but the rest of the climb is your typical Black Velvet wall edging cakewalk. Looking forward to SS. Apr 9, 2016
The entire route can be rappelled safely with an 80 meter Rope.

I believe rappelling the 4th pitch was the closest, but my 80 had a couple feet to spare (Blue Water Icon 9.1). Oct 5, 2016
First Pitch:
Be sure you traverse right far enough to clip a bolt where the white slab meets the varnish. Very close to the first pitch POD / DoWT shared anchor.
Plenty of info out there on this, but I somehow ended up doing a similar thing to J. Thompson, by going too directly up and missing the bolt off the slab. This incorrect alternative climbs through the white slab, and continues more directly up ~10-15ft into the varnish to a bolt. This is not your route. I climbed it straight up and a bit rightward, until I was a little above and between the Sandstone Samurai and Rock Warrior anchors. I then made a long traverse to the RW anchor. 5.11 X?, good climbing, but not at all recommended.
.
Last Pitch (6):
I actually really liked this pitch, but I haven't found a good description of it apart from the bulge pull -- Climb up and left and pull around the bulge as you pass the bolt. From here follow a seam up until you get to a large white ledge. There's a 2 bolt anchor 10-20ft to the left before you pull onto the white ledge. You can go to there, and that seems to look more like what the Handren guide picture says to do. But you can instead climb the right leaning seam in the impressive varnish face above the ledge, eventually pulling to the right around the corner to a nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Really nice climbing. This puts you much more directly over your previous anchor. ~150ft Oct 5, 2016
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
I did this in 1991 or 92 ish with Will Nichols. I think we bailed after 3 pitches, might have been 4. I remember rusty hangers with 1/4" Button Heads? Sound right to anyone else? Nov 13, 2016
Michael Dom  
 
A route for those are seeking out a journey. If you aren't elated while climbing this you must be a corpse.

Gear Beta: I used a purple c3, purple metolius, blue metolius, yellow metolius, grey alien, green .75 bd, a few offset peanuts, few offset DMM, and a few brassies.

This route is amazing but runout in a few sections. You are normally climbing well above a piece but when you do get gear you can sew that section up. The climb wanders but it is quite evident where to go. You are always on the search for a good foothold, that will be the trail to follow. The first pitch I ended up traversing right from Sandstone Samurai's first bolt which worked but was very heady. Dec 15, 2016
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
 
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
 
We had a helluva time locating the first two bolts. The first hanger was spun in a way that made it hard to see and matches the rock color pretty well. The second, up and right, is slightly obscured by features. The pitches after that were more straightforward.

Also, was able to find a couple of bomber pieces (.5 and .1/.2 offset) just down and left from the first bolt. Takes the ground-fall potential out but was still scary reaching out to clip the bolt.

Love this kind of climbing. Very similar to Risky Business. Jan 7, 2017
Jesse Jakomait
Colorado Springs, CO
Jesse Jakomait   Colorado Springs, CO
Me and Chris trucked up Dream of Wild Turkeys and got back to the ground with enough time left to give Rock Warrior a rip on the same day. The 'R' rating for RW is no joke. Like others said, the bottom 2 pitches were the hardest on minimal gear you need to be prepared for serious runouts the whole way! For example I led the 150 foot 4th pitch (5.9) clipping only 2 bolts, one piton and one nut placement! When other folks mention you need to get creative to find gear placements, I can't imagine what they are doing other than putting a blob of bubble gum on the rock. Also worth noting, the final pitch is very confusing where the anchors are. Climb up and left from the top of the 5th pitch belay on varnish plates over the middle of a bulge that is way easier than it looks then once over the belly and up to a ledge, go right until it slabs out. From here keep going up and right into a shallow dihedral on a pillar that trends back above the belay. The anchors are hidden just at the top of the pillar. I had the Jerry Handren guide book and the picture is wrong, making it look like the pitch ends in the middle of the panel off to the left. But overall, the climb was awesome and something I'll remember! Mar 28, 2017

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