Type: Trad, Sport, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Urioste
Page Views: 44,616 total · 239/month
Shared By: TBD on Mar 14, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Approach as for Dream of Wild Turkeys, the first pitch is shared with this climb.

Prince of Darkness ascends straight up the center of Black Velvet Wall. From the ground, 5.10 climbing seems improbable up this blank looking face. Once on the rock, positive edges abound.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Start up the right facing shallow corners to the crack above. Place some gear or solo to the anchors.

Pitch 2: 5.10b From the bolted anchors, climb straight up the face past many bolts. Mostly positive edges with a few balancy moves and slopers. End at the bolted anchors.

Pitch 3: 5.10a From the bolted anchors, climb straight up past even more bolts and positive edges, with a few pieces of gear in the crack down low. End at the bolted anchors.

Pitch 4: 5.9 Similar to the previous 10a pitch, but slightly easier.

Pitch 5: 5.9 The climbing starts to become more slabby, with a few longer runouts between bolts. This pitch ends at the belay for the final crux pitch.

Pitch 6: 5.10c The crux of the climb is right off the belay past the first 2 bolts. The rock is remarkably different as the positive edges have given way to a slick slab with a thin, shallow crack. Fire up the crack on thin holds and smears. Be aware that it is difficult to the first bolt and it is possible to smack into your belayer if you fall. Edges reappear and the climbing eases off to the final anchor at an excellent ledge, which is quite welcome because all of the previous belays have been hanging.

Descent: 2 ropes are required. You can rap the route or the adjacent Yellow Brick Road. It is also possible to finish up Dream of Wild Turkeys and walk off.

I overheard a local call the Prince of Darkness the "Prince of Footpain" He was right on that accord. The climbing isn't the most comfortable with the continuous edging, and all the hanging belays are tiring. However, he also said the climbing wasn't that good and was monotonous. I disagree, I think it is fabulously continuous, with great position and great protection. The blank looking face offers a truly unique experience for a 5.10 climb.

Overall, I felt the climbing was of continuous difficulty after the first pitch, all in the 5.10- range. I felt little difference in the grades of the various pitches until the crux moves. The crux moves are definitely in your face. Enjoy!

Protection

15+ draws, some smaller cams (green, yellow, red, orange aliens, or similar) and/ or med nuts.

Photos