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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Hare & Gray 1982
Page Views: 380 total, 3/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I'm glad nobody bolted this -- while quite enjoyable as a safe if you know what you're doing trad climb. It would be pretty lame as a clip up.

Rolofson's guide indicates that two trad climbs exist left of the leftmost bolted line. It wasn't clear to me what was what or even that there were two possible lines in the 5.9-5.10 range. What I'm describing here is the most obvious line, which starts about five feet left of Cirque du Soleil.

The leftmost line on Midnight Rock. The first 10m up a corner/crack are pretty continous stemming, laybacking and more with adequate but not always easy pro. After this section, diagonal up left on easy, unprotected, dirty slabbing to another crack which is followed to a walk off belay ledge.

Location

The leftmost climb at Midnight Rock, starting just below a pod/alcove which leads to a thin crack in a shallow right facing corner. The Cage is about 5' left of the leftmost bolted climb, Cirque du Soleil.

Protection

We had 1 ea 1-8 Rock and 1 cam in each size range from green Alien to #4 Friend which in conjunction with a couple of runners to drape over small horns, adequately protected the pitch. A small RP might have helped at the bottom.

Photos

I just noticed the Midnight Rock Left Side photo shown by the writeup for Flake Out and, remarkably, if the route markers on that photo are correct, the route I've described here is neither The Cage nor Birds of Prey, but something in between which starts just left of BOP and ends up at The Cage anchor. Oct 3, 2006