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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hare & Matt Fetbrod, 2002
Page Views: 665 total, 5/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

A two move wonder, but not bad. The crux is getting from the ground to the 2nd bolt, mantling at the lip of an overhang; if you blow this move you could deck, fall into the belayer or at least grate past the edge of the overhang, so preclipping the second bolt might be advised, perhaps while descending Weather Report. The start/crux is pretty engaging but the rest of the pitch is ho-hum.

Location

At a blank bulge/roof ~5m right of After Midnight.

Protection

9 bolts.
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
The start to the route definitely feels forced and is going to feel harder for the shorter folks even using the cheater blocks underneath the roof. I thought that the rest of the climbing was worthwhile. Apr 11, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
I thought this was pretty good. I did the roof with a TR from the second bolt. The moves left and then over the bulge were pretty hard and spooky. I was gripped making the third clip--on the edge of tipping out. After the bulge easy climbing lead to a steep 8 or 9 finish up a rounded crack/trough feature with a hand jam or two. May 25, 2007
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
Don't bother. Apr 16, 2007
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
What a piece of crap...along with its 5.9 brother to the right. Oct 16, 2006