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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Chris Weidner (lead), November 2, 2016. TR: Bob Horan, Chule Lee, 1997
Page Views: 172 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Nov 22, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Six feet left of Pirate Radar is a short, overhanging seam that joins the main line at its spectacular roof crack. This direct start has a short but fierce boulder problem that's marginally protected with a few small cams. The hardest single move is fairly safe, but falling a few moves higher could be ugly because it's not too far off the deck.

Continue to the anchor with a couple more cams (or clip a few bolts).

Protection

For an all gear ascent:
1 each: #00 Black Diamond C3 - #1 Camalot

Or: 1ea: #00 Black Diamond C3 - #0.5 Camalot, 3 bolts.

  • a blue/yellow Metolius offset cam is helpful.

Photos

bhoran
Boulder, CO
bhoran   Boulder, CO
Rolofson guidebook got this wrong.
Pirate Radar Direct was toproped by Bob Horan, Chul Lee, 1997. Good lead, Chris! Feb 7, 2017