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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob Horan and Chule Lee. FFA: Bob Horan, Fall 1998
Page Views: 171 total, 1/month
Shared By: Peter Hunt on Jun 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Carefully climb up to the ledge and clip the first and second bolts. Start right then make a long move left to a gaston and the third clip (12b/c). Go up past a jug and then to the right of the fourth bolt (12c). Step back left to easier climbing (11) to finish. This has about twenty feet of good, hard climbing.

Location

This is the second route from the right on the bottom of Midnight Rock, i.e., it is between Crack a Smile and Viola.

Protection

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor. I would suggest stick clipping the third bolt or you could ledge out on the first hard move. With my sequence, you need to go above and to the right of the fourth bolt before clipping—. A hold broke making the direct sequence much harder.

Photos

bhoran
Boulder, CO
bhoran   Boulder, CO
FFA Bob Horan fall 1998, I brought Matt Bebe and Ned Harris up to this later and they insight flashed it. Dec 14, 2016
I have climbed at this crag many times over the past 15 years, but today was my first time on this route. Unlike its neighbor "Voila" to the right, "Grand Finale" is not perfectly bolted. It is impressively hard, but I feel it would be a much better route if the 2nd bolt, maybe 3rd bolt & 4th bolt were moved right. Peter is absolutely correct that you are wise to preclip the 3rd bolt. Moving the 2nd bolt right & maybe up as far as you can stretch would protect the hard moves off the ledge. Probably the 3rd bolt can stay where it is, but it'd be nice to clip the 4th bolt from the only jug in the hard moves. A few feet above the 4th bolt is a huge jug at the end of the hard climbing, so having the 4th bolt this high is not necessary. Moving the 4th bolt right & down seems like it would be better. I will attempt the climb again to rethink the 4th bolt, but the 2nd bolt should definitely be moved. The 5.11a finish is perfectly bolted. Feb 8, 2015
I don't know how many holds Peter broke, but I can't find any good way to start this route, other than pulling on the second draw to move into the gaston. Otherwise the route is great. Jul 25, 2010
Peter Hunt  
 
I had too much for breakfast and broke four separate holds on this, two of them important. The climbing is better than that sounds, and there's less loose stuff now. Jun 16, 2006