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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: Goldstein & Kelly 4Oct06
Page Views: 61 total, 0/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Supremacy lite. On the plus side, every move of this overhanging finger and hand crack is challenging. On the minus, there are not too many of them. If it were on Practice Rock, it would see a lot of traffic. Also, it's about as long as Deus Ex Machina, so if you consider that worth bothering with, maybe you'd think this worth your while.

About 10m left of Deus, there is a deep corner. Rycessica is the obvious crack in the left wall. (Note that there are unclimbed cracks on the right wall and in the corner.)

Starts w/ fingers, ends /w thin hands and has a couple of pulls on somewhat suspsect flakes in the middle.

Location

Facing the cliff, about 10m straight left of the start of Deus. However, there is no ledge connecting from Deus. The best approach might be to climb Weather Report and keep going up for about 20m.

Protection

Will take small and medium nut and cams from thin fingers to #1 Camalot. Doubles from red Alien to Green Camalot might be a good idea if you like to sew it up like I do.

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