Type: Sport
FA: Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe, 1997
Page Views: 1,905 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Nice, face climbing up the clean arete at the base of Midnight Rock. Start about 30 feet down the hill from the big roof. Make some hard moves to get started up to the first bolt, then breeze the rest of the climb. Great climbing and quality rock.

Protection

9 QDs to a 2-bolt anchor; a 60m rope is required to lower off this one.

Photos

I thought this route was a chossy piece of crap. Dirty, lichenous rock and crumbly holds. I also found the mantle above the second bolt and the finish to be contrived, somewhat difficult and very unpleasant climbing. Just a different opinion. Jan 1, 2001
I'll second Ben's two star opinion. Definitely fun clibining. My only qualm is the slghtly inflated grade, there are 5.8's in Dream that are harder. May 28, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
I like this climb. The start is steep and pumpy and a little reachy, with varied face and layback moves working up past the first four or five bolts. The middle section (if you stay to the right) has some delicate slab climbing, and the upper section has some steep stemming and face moves. I don't recall any lichenous rock, unless you wander left in the middle of the route. Fun, varied climbing: two stars in my book. Also solid 5.9, especially for shorter people. Aug 23, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
  5.8
George Bell   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I found this route contrived and I don't think it's 5.9 if you follow the easiest line. Sep 16, 2002
Really nice moderate line; lots of variation in technique. First it's almost steep face moves (probably the cruxiest section), watch the loose block near clip 3. Then turn the corner, run it out a little over 5.5 then clip the 2 slabby bolts, then stem through a juggy corner to reach the anchor. This is a great climb for someone who's starting to lead 5.9 sport routes, or starting to try to feel comfortable above protection. It's pretty easy, so you wont be stressed, but the bolts may seem further apart than a beginner wants them to be, but breathe, it's easy with any hard moves being well-protected. Oh- you could definitely safely climb this one on gear. Feb 1, 2003
Jeff Sallen
San Diego
  5.9
Jeff Sallen   San Diego
  5.9
Extremely fun climb. Be careful clipping the first bolt, it is a bit of a reach for the shorter climber. The upper section of the pitch was very fun and exposed. If you are looking for a nice mellow moderate, hop on this one May 20, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
The crux comes right off the ground, getting past the first bolt. After that it's a relatively easy cruise. Sep 11, 2004
1 move wonder, but the rock seemed mostly clean and solid. Note that there is a long runout on easy ground after the fourth bolt which may be protected with finger size cams. Sep 29, 2006