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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe, 1997
Page Views: 1,797 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Nice, face climbing up the clean arete at the base of Midnight Rock. Start about 30 feet down the hill from the big roof. Make some hard moves to get started up to the first bolt, then breeze the rest of the climb. Great climbing and quality rock.


9 QDs to a 2-bolt anchor; a 60m rope is required to lower off this one.


1 move wonder, but the rock seemed mostly clean and solid. Note that there is a long runout on easy ground after the fourth bolt which may be protected with finger size cams. Sep 29, 2006
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
The crux comes right off the ground, getting past the first bolt. After that it's a relatively easy cruise. Sep 11, 2004
Jeff Sallen
San Diego
Jeff Sallen   San Diego
Extremely fun climb. Be careful clipping the first bolt, it is a bit of a reach for the shorter climber. The upper section of the pitch was very fun and exposed. If you are looking for a nice mellow moderate, hop on this one May 20, 2004
Really nice moderate line; lots of variation in technique. First it's almost steep face moves (probably the cruxiest section), watch the loose block near clip 3. Then turn the corner, run it out a little over 5.5 then clip the 2 slabby bolts, then stem through a juggy corner to reach the anchor. This is a great climb for someone who's starting to lead 5.9 sport routes, or starting to try to feel comfortable above protection. It's pretty easy, so you wont be stressed, but the bolts may seem further apart than a beginner wants them to be, but breathe, it's easy with any hard moves being well-protected. Oh- you could definitely safely climb this one on gear. Feb 1, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I found this route contrived and I don't think it's 5.9 if you follow the easiest line. Sep 16, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
I like this climb. The start is steep and pumpy and a little reachy, with varied face and layback moves working up past the first four or five bolts. The middle section (if you stay to the right) has some delicate slab climbing, and the upper section has some steep stemming and face moves. I don't recall any lichenous rock, unless you wander left in the middle of the route. Fun, varied climbing: two stars in my book. Also solid 5.9, especially for shorter people. Aug 23, 2002
I'll second Ben's two star opinion. Definitely fun clibining. My only qualm is the slghtly inflated grade, there are 5.8's in Dream that are harder. May 28, 2002
I thought this route was a chossy piece of crap. Dirty, lichenous rock and crumbly holds. I also found the mantle above the second bolt and the finish to be contrived, somewhat difficult and very unpleasant climbing. Just a different opinion. Jan 1, 2001