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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley, 1980
Page Views: 587 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route leads to Hammer down or you can finish following straight up after the roof. The crux move is pulling the roof (10+). Good route, leads to a bolt anchor about 20 feet after passing the crux.

Protection

The route is adequately bolted and the clips are fairly easy to make before committing to any difficult moves.
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.10b/c
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.10b/c
The upper section of the climb was good, the LFace corner crack above the 2 bolt anchor was fun. Jan 15, 2012
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
FA Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley 1980 as per Rossiter.

The roof is exciting--you have to convince yourself that your feet will stick on the very overhanging left wall of the corner. There are a few fun moves up the corner above to reach the anchors on the left. We continued up the upper, left-facing corner/hand crack. That was a bit of a thrutch at 5.8 or 5.9, but well protected.

Rolofson calls this climb 10d and shows 2 bolts excluding the anchors on the 12 to the left. Rossiter calls it 10a and mentions a bolt at the roof and a 2 bolt anchor above the upper, left-facing corner.

There are 4 bolts on the climb itself and no upper anchors. The 3 bolts below the roof can be easily bypassed. There is an excellent gold Camalot at the lip of the roof. I clipped the one bolt above the roof that protects the first move up the corner. That move was tricky but turned out to be relatively easy. Perhaps, with a nut tool and some very minor excavation, there may be a placement for a small wire up there. Or there may be a piece down by your feet.

Since there were no anchors above the upper corner that I could see, I diagonalled way right and up and lowered from a pair of anchors that protects one of the routes on the upper wall. Feb 9, 2009
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
A 1/2"-3/4" cam might make some feel a little better just before the anchor. Mar 22, 2007