Crack a Smile
Avg: 1.8 from 13 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Nelson, Rolofson, Reynolds, 1999|
|Page Views:||117 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Sep 29, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionI have mixed feelings about this pitch. The crux section provides 4m of high quality, engrossing technical crack climbing; however, it is also poorly bolted with the 5th bolt located completely unnecessarily smack in the middle of the crux, at a terrible clip position from which you will almost certainly crater into a ledge if you blow said clip. What's worse is that there are many obvious possible gear placements throughout the crux from which placing is much easier than clipping the 5th bolt. Rolofson's guide says nothing about gear advised which just salts the wound. Note: there is a bomber #2 Rock placement in the middle of the crux, at a spot where it is possible to hang and place; while this placement is not very far above the 4th bolt, it is enough to allow one to safely complete the crux sequence before clipping the 5th bolt.
The starting moves on this pitch are somewhat interesting as is the finish. Rolofson indicates the direct finish (obvious, recommended) is 5.11, but it is much easier than the crux.
LocationThis is about 10m right of Weather Report at a 6m long, right-facing corner leading to a ledge and crack.
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