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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Bob Horan, Chule Lee, 1998
Page Views: 205 total, 1/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a huge roof with a crack through it. It is very obvious when you first arrive at Midnight Rock. It is on the left side of the formation when looking approximately north (uphill). The crack looks like it would have good jamming the whole way. However, I pulled a 3 inch piece of rock out of it, and the jams weren't that solid! I think the way to climb it successfully would be using the flakes to the left of the crack. You start out climbing up for about 15-20 feet through 2 bolts, and then take a tricky travese to the left under the roof, for about 10 feet. Now climb the big roof. I thought it was harder that it looked, but, fun nevertheless.

Protection

This is a short route, with about 6 bolts, and a couple pitons. However, you will only need to use the bolts, and maybe a #2, or #3 cam for the crack below the lip of the roof. 2 bolt anchor.

Per Mark Rolofson: this route was originally done with 4 bolts & 3 pins.

Photos

bhoran
Boulder, CO
bhoran   Boulder, CO
Rolofson got this wrong in his guidebook. The direct start was toproped by Bob Horan and Chul Lee, hands down. Feb 7, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
Great route but this route description is a bit misleading. First, this route was originally done with 4 bolts & 3 pins. In 1999, (with Bob Horan's permission) I replaced the pins with 2 bolts. The upper piton was a large angle that I removed, the other 2 pins, I couldn't get out but are easily ignored. The 5th bolt allows you to make one clip instead of clipping two pitons from the very strenuous, thin crack in the ceiling. As for bringing gear for the upper crack, you've got to be kidding! The 5th & 6th bolts are 4 feet apart.
As for loose rock, there is none. I've climbed it every year since 2010 and back in 1999. I don't use the chalked up flake left of the crack. It is better to undercling the crack to a deep fingerlock near the 2nd piton, to then reach out to good hand jams. At the lip, go left on face holds. I strongly recommend taping your hands. I've lost flesh each year from the back of my hands, wrists & palm of my left thumb from the fingerlock. Feb 12, 2013