Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Horan & Lee 1998
Page Views: 992 total · 7/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 27, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

With a lot of variety and challenge in a short distance, HD is for my money one of the best single pitch climbs in Dream Canyon, up there w/ Saragasso Sea and Mantra. (That opinion is in spite of the fact that the sandbag last move completely stymied me.)

Start on the left side of Midnight Rock at a slabby right facing corner with the first bolt a few moves up. (Ron Olsen's route locator photo does a good job of pinpointing the climb.)

Highlights: a 10d layback past a roof, tenuous 5.11 slabbing followed by 5.11 bafflement up a seam, the final crux roof which is either quite height-dependent or very out of character w/ most DC ratings.

Location

Like most climbs on Midnight Rock, this one gets a lot of sun and should be enjoyable during the cooler months.

Protection

9 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Bruce Pech
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Bruce Pech   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
What David said. The final roof felt considerably harder than most Dream Canyon-Boulder Canyon .11cs. Stem and finger jam as high as possible, then make several improbable, right-facing layback moves to the tiny stance at the anchors. (This sequence worked for me after I was shut down on my first three tries. YMMV.) Sep 26, 2006
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.11d
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.11d
Last few moves make this route a sandbag. I'm 5'9" and this feels like 12- to crank over the roof. It's not a gimme up until that point either with a 11d crux on the seam below the roof. How did this get an 11c?! Maybe someone with great reach will have an easier time? Mar 11, 2018

More About Hammer Down

Printer-Friendly