Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Horan & Lee 1998
Page Views: 1,049 total · 7/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 27, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

With a lot of variety and challenge in a short distance, HD is for my money one of the best single pitch climbs in Dream Canyon, up there w/ Saragasso Sea and Mantra. (That opinion is in spite of the fact that the sandbag last move completely stymied me.)

Start on the left side of Midnight Rock at a slabby right facing corner with the first bolt a few moves up. (Ron Olsen's route locator photo does a good job of pinpointing the climb.)

Highlights: a 10d layback past a roof, tenuous 5.11 slabbing followed by 5.11 bafflement up a seam, the final crux roof which is either quite height-dependent or very out of character w/ most DC ratings.

Location

Like most climbs on Midnight Rock, this one gets a lot of sun and should be enjoyable during the cooler months.

Protection

9 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Bruce Pech
Boulder
  5.11+
Bruce Pech   Boulder
  5.11+
What David said. The final roof felt considerably harder than most Dream Canyon-Boulder Canyon .11cs. Stem and finger jam as high as possible, then make several improbable, right-facing layback moves to the tiny stance at the anchors. (This sequence worked for me after I was shut down on my first three tries. YMMV.) Sep 26, 2006
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.11d
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.11d
Last few moves make this route a sandbag. I'm 5'9" and this feels like 12- to crank over the roof. It's not a gimme up until that point either with a 11d crux on the seam below the roof. How did this get an 11c?! Maybe someone with great reach will have an easier time? Mar 11, 2018