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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Jesse Guthrie
Page Views: 270 total, 2/month
Shared By: Peter Hunt on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent, sustained line with varied, interesting climbing from beginning to end. Start up the dihedral (10), waltz up an easy section to a tricky section in a corner (10 c/d). Finish up a crack that's harder than it looks.

Location

Downhill and to the right of the large roof of Pirate Radio are two dihedrals. This starts up the easier right-hand one.

Protection

Rolofson says that 6-7 stoppers or 0.5-0.75 Aliens are useful. If you're a 10 leader, bring the gear. If it's your warm-up, don't bother.

Photos

As of 8/5/12, there is a wasp nest just below the anchor. They were pissed and stung my partner. Aug 5, 2012
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.10c/d
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.10c/d
I didn't bring gear and I'm so happy I didn't fall, I thought it was hard for 10c. Jan 15, 2012
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Connect the bottom dihedral of Midnight Express to upper Stroke of Midnight for a nice 10a. Apr 4, 2011
John Rudolph
  5.10d
John Rudolph  
  5.10d
What a nice route. Bolts well spaced, but clean falls. Great variety of moves and techniques. Can be awkward, but if done right the moves are wonderful. Highly recommended. Oct 9, 2009
A couple of interesting moves, but overall, I found this pitch so-so. Aug 6, 2006