Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Jesse Guthrie
Page Views: 415 total · 3/month
Shared By: Peter Hunt on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent, sustained line with varied, interesting climbing from beginning to end. Start up the dihedral (10), waltz up an easy section to a tricky section in a corner (10 c/d). Finish up a crack that's harder than it looks.

Location

Downhill and to the right of the large roof of Pirate Radio are two dihedrals. This starts up the easier right-hand one.

Protection

Rolofson says that 6-7 stoppers or 0.5-0.75 Aliens are useful. If you're a 10 leader, bring the gear. If it's your warm-up, don't bother.

Photos

A couple of interesting moves, but overall, I found this pitch so-so. Aug 6, 2006
John Rudolph
  5.10d
John Rudolph  
  5.10d
What a nice route. Bolts well spaced, but clean falls. Great variety of moves and techniques. Can be awkward, but if done right the moves are wonderful. Highly recommended. Oct 9, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Connect the bottom dihedral of Midnight Express to upper Stroke of Midnight for a nice 10a. Apr 4, 2011
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.10c/d
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.10c/d
I didn't bring gear and I'm so happy I didn't fall, I thought it was hard for 10c. Jan 15, 2012
As of 8/5/12, there is a wasp nest just below the anchor. They were pissed and stung my partner. Aug 5, 2012