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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Matt Fetbrod
Page Views: 993 total, 7/month
Shared By: Peter Hunt on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb has three distinct crux sections separated by rests. Stem and crimp up the dihedral (11d), and then wander a bit left. Diagonal back right on a bulge with slopers (12a/b). After a 5.9 section, finish up a pumping headwall (11d).

Location

Downhill and to the right of the large roof of Pirate Radio are two dihedrals. Midnight Cowboy starts up the left and more difficult of these.

Protection

15 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Really interesting and fun route - each crux was very different from the next. The middle one can be done rather bizarrely, which I quite enjoyed. Apr 28, 2014
Pinklebear  
 
Good climb, great rock, three distinct cruxes, and well-protected. Get on it! Feb 3, 2013
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
Getting to the 12 section I was able to easily go around by mantling the big, horizontal crack, then joining the route before going around the corner to the 11d headwall which I passed and finished on the 10 next door. We later TR'ed this route, the upper 11d was too hard for me, but the 12 section wasn't too bad after unlocking the jog right via the topo. Jan 28, 2013