Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Chris Weidner, December 5, 2017. Equipped by Bob Horan, 1998
Page Views: 334 total · 27/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Dec 14, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This route begins on a slab about 10 feet right of Hammer Down and finishes as per that route. Gain the no-hands stance below the crux bulge, and decipher a way over it via underclings, slopers, and a little luck. Like most granite boulder problems, cold temps will help.

Location

Start 10 feet right of Hammer Down.

Protection

[11] bolts.

Photos

Jon W
Longmont Colorado
Jon W   Longmont Colorado
Got on this Sunday. Kind of a short but stout crux. I'll have to go back and try to link it up.

Glad it finally got sent. Nice job, Chris! Apr 17, 2018
Pinklebear
  5.13+
Pinklebear  
  5.13+
With the permission of the FFA party (Mr. Super Chris Weidner, International King of Fitness, Hotness, and Sponsorhipness), we retooled the bolts at the crux bulge for a safer lead. The original first bulge bolt is still in out right and helps with keeping the rope out of your way. You clip a second bolt out in the bulge from the same stance then crank up high on the good righthand undercling to clip the high bolt below the lip, which protects all of the action (prehang draw here while lowering off the 5.11+ warm-up to the left, or fi-fi in to the second bulge bolt and reach up to equip). Return to stance, regroup, then fire. The bolt up over the lip is pretty much a dogger bolt but useful to have while working the route.

So, 11 bolts total now.

Also, I wrote out a beta sheet for my short-guy (5'6") beta, so if you're ever stumped, PM me, and I'll send it to you. Apr 27, 2018