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Routes in Midnight Rock

After Hours Superpowers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jet Stream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midnight Express S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voila S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Weather Report S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bob Horan, Clean Dan Grandusky, and Jerry Greenleaf
Page Views: 190 total · 1/month
Shared By: Peter Hunt on Aug 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the line of 12 bolts to an anchor at the top of the cliff. This route has three distinct sections separated by ledges. The second is the hardest and, if the leader falls at the wrong place, there's some chance of the s/he twisting an ankle or something on the ledge below that section. The climbing overall involves mixed crack and face climbing and is generally enjoyable.

Location

This climb starts on left side of the same ledge system from which Geminae Cracks, Deus Ex Machina, and Dyno-Mart start. It's actually quite a bit closer to the top of Melt Down or the start of the Caboose than it looks from Rolofson's guide, but you can't scramble to the start from the left (e.g. from Caboose), but only from the right, e.g. from Geminae Cracks, etc.

Protection

Twelve bolts plus two-bolt anchors at start and finish.

Photos

Bruce Pech
Boulder
  5.11c/d PG13
Bruce Pech   Boulder
  5.11c/d PG13
We did this as a second pitch to Midnight Express. 3rd or 4th class diagonally left up a slabby ledge for 30' to reach the belay from ME's anchors.

Pros: tricky, strenuous cruxes on the 2nd and 3rd bulging/overhanging walls.

Cons: Serious ledge fall risk between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the 2nd wall (just below the crux transition from the discontinuous layback crack to standing on a 3" wide ledge); some ledge fall risk between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the 3rd wall. Nasty rope drag (on the 3rd wall and at the top anchors) if you use short draws or single biners to offset the PG-13 rating.

Maybe I was having an off day, but this felt a lot harder than .11b/c to me. I was reminded of a route description from Aaron Huey's Ten Sleep guidebook: "An .11 for solid .12 climbers." Sep 13, 2006
beth bennett
boulder
beth bennett   boulder
This route looks inviting from the ground, but once you get to the base, you realize it's choss. The cruxes should really be pre-clipped, so you don't hit the ledge. Your belayer can't see you well, and it's just not that pleasant. Can't say I'd recommend it. Mar 8, 2016

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