Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas, 2001
Page Views: 14,029 total · 65/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


377 Opinions

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Description

This route share the first two bolts and moves as Afterburner. Climb up a short crack and then angle to the right up into a steep shallow corner. Follow the line of bolts up through the corner and steep face to the anchor. Great climbing on good holds and rock.

Protection

Twelve bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.11a
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.11a
I am no Shelf Road veteran, but the only climb in the 11 range on this section has to be Muscle Beach. It has its own start in an irregular crack just left of Afterburner. Once through the crack it works straight up on smoother rock on some steep holds and then angles right on the slightly overhanging bulge. It is an excellent route, but rather than 11b/c it felt more like 11a. Feb 27, 2004
Dave Meyers
Evergreen, CO
Dave Meyers   Evergreen, CO
Let's at least stick to the guide book ratings here. Definitely .11a. if this route was at old Shelf (Contest, Freeform, Gallery, etc.) it probably would be .10d. Dec 17, 2006
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Like the book says, "Not a single move of 5.11..." what this climb lacks in technical difficulty it only delivers on the pump factor. It's a route I'll get on everytime I go back. Easily the best of the grade at Cactus Cliff. Mar 23, 2008
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.11c
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.11c
Stellar route, but much harder than any 11a's I've done lately, including enduro routes like this one. Harder than Free Willie in Bocan, Fuzzy Undercling at the Red, Reefer Madness in Clear Creek, etc., just to name a few.

Or maybe I just suck. Nov 21, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.11c
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.11c
I also noticed that the person who called this 10b/c (what?!) 'cleaned it on TR' and at least one person who called it 11a one-hung on it. Dude. It's an endurance route. Nov 21, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
There were sure awfully good rests on it. I did it fresh off of a pretty severe injury (just got the splint off of my broken wrist a few weeks ago) that made the other 10s around give me pause... but this one, no. Didn't get pumped, didn't struggle. And I was hanging the draws OS.
I'm not trying to brag, I'm just saying that the 5.10 rating is an available opinion to more than just people who hung on it or followed it. I'd endorse that. Dec 30, 2010
Hans Hoffman
D'iberville, MS
  5.11a
Hans Hoffman   D'iberville, MS
  5.11a
The 4/5th bolt is loose. I don't remember exactly which one. I tightened it as much as I could with my hands. Still climbable just thought I'd share. Jul 14, 2011
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
I have done many many routes from 5.10 to 5.13 at Shelf and this is among one of my favorite climbs at any grade. Regardless of the debatable grade (I thought it was roughly 5.9c), it's very enjoyable climbing and can serve as a great warmup for some of the harder routes at Cactus. Do it!!! Jan 11, 2012
dancesatmoonrise
  5.11a
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.11a
Sweet OS this afternoon. Agree the 11 a/b rating is perhaps just a tad soft. Also agree that it is totally classic. True that there is not really any technical crux, but in the upper half is a section that was interesting and had to be worked out without a great rest. Stays on ya most of the upper half. Very well protected, solid modern gear after the fourth bolt. Gave it four stars. Dec 2, 2012
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
Definitely a Shelf Road favorite for the grade! Feb 14, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Way fun. Reiterating the above comments, just watch out for the pump. Enjoy! Jan 14, 2014
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
I thought this route, Blackman's Burden, and Misalignment all felt about the same difficulty, 10+ range. Sustained but lots of big holds and good feet to keep the pump at bay. Great route. Mar 23, 2014
Replaced anchor in 2016, hardware courtesy of theĀ ASCA. Consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Apr 18, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Bob & Vaino...what an awesome name. Thanks for posting, Ron. Jan 3, 2017
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
The individual moves are all in the 5.10 range, but I thought this was fairly pumpy, so I think 5.11a is a fair grade for this.

I'm not sure how Tony didn't get pumped at all, but I sure as hell did. I was also leading it OS hanging draws, and I whipped off at the second to last bolt purely out of being pumped. Mar 21, 2017