Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard Aschert and Dave Dangle, 1991
Page Views: 10,985 total · 52/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Description

The climbing is exclusively on micro-thin edges that inspire either abject hate or a fascination with the intricate footwork. I love these routes, but, again, a contrast: in a fit of unbridled enthusiasm I once sicced Jim Garber on this, and as I recall, he invoked enough colorful language describing my wretched propensity for sand-bagging to make a sailor proud. Think thin and continuous with finesse in the footwork. This is well bolted and won't kill anyone.

Location

This is the route between Afterburner and Hot Beach.

Protection

11 bolts.

Photos

Four routes on the wall, from left to right: Muscle Beach (11b), Afterburner (12b), Tits Up (12b), and Hot Beach (12a). Oct 9, 2001
Jesse Ryan
  5.12b
Jesse Ryan  
  5.12b
This route and Afterburner immediately to the left are both three-star routes in my book, stellar moves all the way to the chains. The left is a bit harder than the right. They are shown in William Prehm's photo topo Cactus Left Two. On that photo they are denoted Tits Up = Unamed A and Hot Beach = Unamed B. Nov 12, 2001
bb
  5.12b
bb  
  5.12b
Afterburner starts just left of "Tits Up" and crosses left of Muscle Beach. It should be added to the database: 12b, two stars. Very different from Tits Up, though. It is more sustained and obvious, whereas Tits Up's crux is mysterious and puzzling. Jan 2, 2006
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
I thought this would let up a bit after the initial crux around the 2nd bolt... not the case. Hard and sustained all the way to the finish. Very thin, very technical. Amazing route. Jan 18, 2010
JJNS
  5.12b
JJNS  
  5.12b
I have to disagree with the description which states that you climb exclusively on micro thin edges. I can only think of one maybe two holds that qualify. The upper crux has some small holds that you can't skip but the feet are good at that point. The rest of the beta came together in a manner that did not require pulling on small holds. They were there. I just didn't have to use them. This route was a classic power endurance route for me with four decent jug holds to recover on. This is one of my all time favorites at Shelf so far. Don't let the description dissuade you from getting on this route. I found smaller holds on The Gym Arete and Heavy Weather. Jan 24, 2012
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
Hard and sustained are accurate descriptors. This route is very technical but entirely worth the effort. A bit of awkward climbing in the upper section (after bolt 4 and 5), but it is a very nice climb for the grade. I'm a 12a climber, and I'd put this climb at the top of some of my favorite projects. Feb 14, 2013
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
 
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
 
It has been over two decades since I redpointed this great forearm endurance route in December 1991 and again in 1992. I remember it having 10 bolts with the crux at 8th bolt. It is possible to avoid the straight up crux next to the bolt, by instead traversing right and using a hold on "Hot Beach" then moving back left. I didn't go this way, but I know someone who did, and it makes the route a little easier but still .12b he thought. I thought climbing the crux straight up and keeping the route independent made the route almost .12c. Nov 25, 2014
Replaced anchor in 2016, hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Jan 30, 2016
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
What a treat. Really fun stuff down low to some hard, thinner moves up top. There's some good rests along the way. This is my favorite route in the area for sure! Don't miss it! Jan 28, 2018