Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, 1986
Page Views: 1,452 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up and climb some nice moderate 5.11 moves on rock that feels more like sandstone than limestone. It has good moves with some rather open-hand stuff instead of pockets. The seam that curves towards Lats picks up some nice crisp corners to keep the difficulty lower than advertised. This felt very soft for 5.11d and would drop a grade or two if it was at Devil's Head or Lumpy.

Protection

9 bolts.

Location

This is on the blood red wall that hosts "Lats Don't Have Feelings" and just right is a curving line that starts off a block.

Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11d
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11d
Bob,

I don't recall a separate anchor, did we just miss it gunning for the one on Lats? I hope I was not offensive with the star, I thought this route was kick. Oct 16, 2001
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Surprised at this one being described as soft compared to other Shelf or Devil's Head 12a's. I thought it was pretty consistent climbing at a difficult level. Much more difficult than many/most of the new 12a's at Shelf, definitely harder than any of the 12a's I can think of at DH, and a substantial leap in difficulty from Lats. Mar 4, 2013
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
Agreed with Slim. Maybe something broke? Mar 22, 2013
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11d
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11d
Younger and stronger in 2001.... Mar 22, 2013
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
I think the 11d grade must refer to a different line than the standard one. The description by Richard mentions a seam curving back to Lats, and in the comments section, he mentions finishing at the Lats anchor. The line now finishes at an independent anchor, and IMO, is solid at 5.12a (or a/b). Nov 11, 2013
Jesse Jakomait
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12a
Jesse Jakomait   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12a
Like the others say, staying right at the top following the pockets, away from Lats onto separate anchors feels in line with a lot of other 12a's at Shelf. Great route that keeps building as you get higher. Dec 7, 2015
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
I'm going to make the audacious claim that this is one of the best 12s at Shelf. The rock quality is fabulous and on-par with the good stuff at Ten Sleep. Also, as with many Shelf 12s, this one has no rests and no "cheater" holds. Jan 4, 2018