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Routes in Cactus Cliff

Affluenza S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Agave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alexi's Climb S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost French S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Almost Gothic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Amiga S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Are You Experiential? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beach Ball S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beef Cake Formula S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Minnow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Slabbeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blade Runner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blarney Stone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bombodido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bur-Har-Bur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cactus Cliff Addict S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy for Big Kids S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child's Play S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chompin' at the Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Christmas Tree S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cobra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Crimpson Candy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critic's Choice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cro-Magnum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dances with Cholla S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dereliction Affliction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dihedrus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Divinity School S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escalando S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Et Tu, Brutus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fiscal Cliff S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fishisms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
French Are Here, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fully Equipped S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Funkdemental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gabby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Red Road, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gravitations S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Expectations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Trigger S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Half Breed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hero Driver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hot Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hurricane Hinzi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I Claudius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I Lean S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm Having A Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Ian's Climb S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impulsive Hands S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jamuary S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Thesenga It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kalahari Sidewinder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Louie's Traverse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kipu Pawkets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kodachrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Temperatura de Shelf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
LaCholla Jackson S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Legend on the Fall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manly Bulges S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Midget Toss S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning Joe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Fred T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Muscle Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Ethics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New World Order S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ol' 47 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oscar de la Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out There Take Anything S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Part Muffalo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pick Pocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Politically Incorrect S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poquito Mas S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puff Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quarterback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quasi Quasar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Reach Around, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Eclipse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Giant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Relampago S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Business S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shelf Pride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Man's Burden S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Six More Bottles of Bosco S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Eclipse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Belle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze the Moment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stand, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Suka S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Sam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Third Stage S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thumbs Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tits Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Recount S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turkey's Bleak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two For One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under A Blood Red Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Usual Suspects, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Utter To A Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wadsworth Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Punks on Pockets S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiteman's Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1999
Page Views: 4,594 total, 24/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start just right of Hot .. Beach, and climb through two small roofs on amazing features. This is a very fun laybacking outing, highly recommended. It is well-protected at the crux but very runout above near the anchor on easy terrain.

Protection

11 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains. There are sizeable runouts (20 feet) on 5.8 terrain at the top.
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
One wacky roof pull to a incredibly boring and easy headwall. It just drags on and on and on up there. Just because you can bolt an 80' line doesn't mean you have to. Dec 24, 2016
Zak.M
 
Zak.M  
 
Maybe I was having an off day, but I didn't feel this was all that great of a climb. The bottom roof is more awkward than interesting, though the second roof does have cool movement. Past that the bolts space out and climbing gets easier. It wouldn't have been an issue if it didn't seem like every other hold was lose or had an "X" on it. Feb 8, 2016
Julia  
Great, diverse climb. Tricky spot early on, just keep moving. Jan 26, 2016
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
A ton of fun! The roofs aren't too bad at all and is very well-protected on the lower half. As mentioned, the runouts on top follow considerably easier terrain (5.7/8), so don't worry. A must do. Dec 2, 2013
Garrett R.
Colorado
 
Garrett R.   Colorado
 
Overchalked and polished... even by Shelf standards. Still a good climb, but it's taking a beating. Mar 12, 2013
Yenni
Louisville, KY
5.10c
Yenni   Louisville, KY
5.10c
Make sure to flip your rope out of the crack between the 8th and 9th bolts! Our rope got stuck there. Dec 14, 2012
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.10c
Very beta-intense and cool crux moves.

My math might be a little fuzzy, but not sure how an 80 ft. route with 11 bolts is 'runout.' Also, you can get up and down this with a 50m no problem. Nov 21, 2010
There is quite a bit of loose rock on this route. I counted 4 loose blocks with Xs on them, which included the most obvious clipping holds for the bolt at the end of the runout section. Use caution, it would be a long ride.... Mar 4, 2010
Clint Ballard
Greeley, CO
  5.10b
Clint Ballard   Greeley, CO
  5.10b
The guidebook calls Wadsworth 10b. Nov 27, 2008
Tons of fun, short cruxes, lots of rests. This has to be the easiest 10c at Shelf, considering I got up it no problem...

I thought Blackman's Burden, Christmas Tree, and Politically Incorrect were all way harder.

Good luck getting on it on a weekend. Apr 16, 2005
Gent Grush
  5.10c
Gent Grush  
  5.10c
Great route for any who are looking to improve there technique. the two roofs require good technique!! tons of fun for anyone compitent at the grade!! Enjoy!! Apr 16, 2005
Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
The last couple of bolts are a little runout compared to the closely-spaced bolts near the two lower roofs, but the climbing is fairly easy. However, these last bolts can be supplemented with finger-sized cams. Nov 3, 2003
Runouts on the top were not as bad as I expected. It may be they added a bolt or two or that it just seems tougher after pulling the two ledges. Jun 14, 2002