Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1999
Page Views: 4,955 total · 24/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


322 Opinions

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Description

Start just right of Hot .. Beach, and climb through two small roofs on amazing features. This is a very fun laybacking outing, highly recommended. It is well-protected at the crux but very runout above near the anchor on easy terrain.

Protection

11 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains. There are sizeable runouts (20 feet) on 5.8 terrain at the top.
Runouts on the top were not as bad as I expected. It may be they added a bolt or two or that it just seems tougher after pulling the two ledges. Jun 14, 2002
Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
The last couple of bolts are a little runout compared to the closely-spaced bolts near the two lower roofs, but the climbing is fairly easy. However, these last bolts can be supplemented with finger-sized cams. Nov 3, 2003
Gent Grush
  5.10c
Gent Grush  
  5.10c
Great route for any who are looking to improve there technique. the two roofs require good technique!! tons of fun for anyone compitent at the grade!! Enjoy!! Apr 16, 2005
Tons of fun, short cruxes, lots of rests. This has to be the easiest 10c at Shelf, considering I got up it no problem...

I thought Blackman's Burden, Christmas Tree, and Politically Incorrect were all way harder.

Good luck getting on it on a weekend. Apr 16, 2005
Clint Ballard
Greeley, CO
  5.10b
Clint Ballard   Greeley, CO
  5.10b
The guidebook calls Wadsworth 10b. Nov 27, 2008
There is quite a bit of loose rock on this route. I counted 4 loose blocks with Xs on them, which included the most obvious clipping holds for the bolt at the end of the runout section. Use caution, it would be a long ride.... Mar 4, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.10c
Very beta-intense and cool crux moves.

My math might be a little fuzzy, but not sure how an 80 ft. route with 11 bolts is 'runout.' Also, you can get up and down this with a 50m no problem. Nov 21, 2010
Yenni
Louisville, KY
5.10c
Yenni   Louisville, KY
5.10c
Make sure to flip your rope out of the crack between the 8th and 9th bolts! Our rope got stuck there. Dec 14, 2012
Garrett R.
Colorado
 
Garrett R.   Colorado
 
Overchalked and polished... even by Shelf standards. Still a good climb, but it's taking a beating. Mar 12, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
A ton of fun! The roofs aren't too bad at all and is very well-protected on the lower half. As mentioned, the runouts on top follow considerably easier terrain (5.7/8), so don't worry. A must do. Dec 2, 2013
Julia  
Great, diverse climb. Tricky spot early on, just keep moving. Jan 26, 2016
Zak.M
 
Zak.M  
 
Maybe I was having an off day, but I didn't feel this was all that great of a climb. The bottom roof is more awkward than interesting, though the second roof does have cool movement. Past that the bolts space out and climbing gets easier. It wouldn't have been an issue if it didn't seem like every other hold was lose or had an "X" on it. Feb 8, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
One wacky roof pull to a incredibly boring and easy headwall. It just drags on and on and on up there. Just because you can bolt an 80' line doesn't mean you have to. Dec 24, 2016
The second roof was super fun! There's a good rest before you blast through the runout. Lower off climbers left to avoid sticking the rope. Dec 5, 2018