Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Richard Aschert, Darryl Roth and Dave Dangle, 1987
Page Views: 7,861 total · 35/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Apr 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

AKA "Hot Bitch on a Beach" for the non-PC, this is an excellent route and undoubtedly a Shelf classic! The guidebook grade above is fairly consistent with other routes graded in the Cactus Cliff Decimal System. However, word has it that it's a good bit easier than the neighboring "Tits Up", also graded 12b. (Note that these two climbs are reversed in the beta photo.)

Start right of Tits Up and left of Wadsworth Boulevard, at the right side of the wall. Climb a short arete to a small roof and continue up the slightly overhanging wall to the anchors. The route is characterized by sustained climbing that doesn't let up until the anchors. There really didn't seem to be a distinct crux... more like 5-6 11/11+ cruxes, separated by decent stances where you can get a good shake.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos