Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, and Darryl Roth, 1986
Page Views: 821 total · 5/month
Shared By: Guy H. on May 28, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route has been updated with a bolt anchor and a few extra bolts. It used to have only 4-5 bolts. Start 20' right of New Ethics and 15' left of Turkey's Bleak at a clean panel.

This route is a little sharp in places, and there are a few ledges that break up the climbing. One of the bolts is tough to clip, as you must commit to climbing off a ledge before making the clip. The crux is the last 10 feet of the route. Right of the last bolt may be easier than going straight up.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Rebolted poorly IMO. Several difficult clips out of reach from good stances and razor pockets keep this one from being fun. Jun 8, 2006
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
All of the bolts were fine to clip for me at 5'7'' except the next to last, which required a solid move off the ledge first. Perhaps a tall climber could clip from ledge, but I think most will have to make the move. Consider bringing a stiffie or the like if you're not comfortable making something like an easy 10 move where a fall would be bad.

Otherwise, bolting over ledges is just a tough proposition to make everyone happy in light of climbers being of very different heights - I'm sympathetic to short people (being one, in the grand scheme of things), but I don't think it's realistic to place bolts over ledges so that every climber can clip from the ledge. Apr 2, 2018
Ari Stoner
Denver, CO
 
Ari Stoner   Denver, CO
 
I actually thought this was a very fun route. I agree that some of the bolts felt a bit sketchy, but I also realize the desire to prevent excessive rope drag when the moves are easy. Accidently hopped on this while looking to warm up on Southern Belle and was suprisingly satisfied. I personally thought the hardest clip was at the anchors. Oct 22, 2018