Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Glen Schuler, Wayne Smith, Kevin McLaughlin, mid-1990s
Page Views: 1,886 total · 15/month
Shared By: Don McGrath on May 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Start between Tits Up and Muscle Beach. The first bolt is quite high, so stick clipping the first bolt is wise (requires a long stick). The climb opens with a punchy duo of pockety and crimpy boulder problems up to very welcome deep pockets as it veers up and left to cross Muscle Beach.

After a good and nearly no-hands rest, it accelerates up and slightly left through a thought provoking face with decent edges and pockets (once you find them).

The afterburning forearms kick in as you reach the break that makes you think you may actually get a rest...not so lucky, as the final section leads you through a series of delightful pinches, sidepulls, underclings, and pockets to reach the anchors.

This is a great, sustained route in the tradition of Tits Up, though possibly less cruxy and more sustained.

Location

Start between Tits Up and Muscle Beach.

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
Might want a stick clip for this one. That or climb Muscle Beach and equip this on the way down. Pretty high first bolt with some non-trivial climbing to reach it. Mar 22, 2013
Rebolted in 2016. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA, consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Apr 28, 2016
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
 
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
 
Very fun, unjustifiably overlooked route. I think movement-wise it's no worse or more difficult than Hot Beach but is much harder to read due to lack of chalk. Agree with Steve - pre-clip the first bolt.
Oh, thanks for the new hardware! I guess that could explain why it still has less chalk than its neighboors. Dec 12, 2016