Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Glen Schuler, Wayne Smith, Kevin McLaughlin, mid-1990s
Page Views: 2,028 total · 15/month
Shared By: Don McGrath on May 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Start between Tits Up and Muscle Beach. The first bolt is quite high, so stick clipping the first bolt is wise (requires a long stick). The climb opens with a punchy duo of pockety and crimpy boulder problems up to very welcome deep pockets as it veers up and left to cross Muscle Beach.

After a good and nearly no-hands rest, it accelerates up and slightly left through a thought provoking face with decent edges and pockets (once you find them).

The afterburning forearms kick in as you reach the break that makes you think you may actually get a rest...not so lucky, as the final section leads you through a series of delightful pinches, sidepulls, underclings, and pockets to reach the anchors.

This is a great, sustained route in the tradition of Tits Up, though possibly less cruxy and more sustained.

Location

Start between Tits Up and Muscle Beach.

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
Might want a stick clip for this one. That or climb Muscle Beach and equip this on the way down. Pretty high first bolt with some non-trivial climbing to reach it. Mar 22, 2013
Rebolted in 2016. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA, consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Apr 28, 2016
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
 
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
 
Very fun, unjustifiably overlooked route. I think movement-wise it's no worse or more difficult than Hot Beach but is much harder to read due to lack of chalk. Agree with Steve - pre-clip the first bolt.
Oh, thanks for the new hardware! I guess that could explain why it still has less chalk than its neighboors. Dec 12, 2016
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
  5.12b
ROCKMAN2   Nederland, CO
  5.12b
Pumpy! Tricky OS, unrelenting at the top! Great, classic Shelf climbing all the way! Mar 11, 2019