Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Glen Schuler, Wayne Smith, Kevin McLaughlin, mid-1990s
Page Views: 2,472 total · 16/month
Shared By: Don McGrath on May 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Start between Tits Up and Muscle Beach. The first bolt is quite high, so stick clipping the first bolt is wise (requires a long stick). The climb opens with a punchy duo of pockety and crimpy boulder problems up to very welcome deep pockets as it veers up and left to cross Muscle Beach.

After a good and nearly no-hands rest, it accelerates up and slightly left through a thought provoking face with decent edges and pockets (once you find them).

The afterburning forearms kick in as you reach the break that makes you think you may actually get a rest...not so lucky, as the final section leads you through a series of delightful pinches, sidepulls, underclings, and pockets to reach the anchors.

This is a great, sustained route in the tradition of Tits Up, though possibly less cruxy and more sustained.

Location

Start between Tits Up and Muscle Beach.

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos