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The French Are Here
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.5 from 133
votes
Routes in B. Cactus Cliff Left (Muscle Beach & right)
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Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blade Runner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bur-Har-Bur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Child's Play S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Christmas Tree S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Confusiasm S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dereliction Affliction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dihedrus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fiscal Cliff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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French Are Here, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Good Red Road, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gravitations S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hot Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Plastic Dog Shit TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I'm Having A Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Just Thesenga It S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kalahari Sidewinder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kodachrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lats Don't Have Feelings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Midget Toss S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mr. Fred T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Muscle Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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New Ethics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Red Giant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southern Belle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sweet Sam S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Third Stage S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thumbs Up S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tits Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Turkey's Bleak S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Under A Blood Red Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Usual Suspects, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wadsworth Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio and Richard Aschert, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 9,967 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Sep 24, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
See Gravitations. The French Are Here tackles the bulge to the right of Gravitations via pockets and a gaston corner for one hand. The bulge is actually pulled on the left side. Big reaches on good hands lead into the gaston/corner. Pull around and over the bulge to very continuous 5.11d face climbing on greyish-colored stone. I thought that The French Are Here was a very nice line with a relentless series of upper 5.11 face moves following the bulge; I have yet to do it one push, and while I don't know how others experience this route, for me the difficulties arise mostly in the relentless forearm pump. The reaches and big muscle moves are all reasonable if you can detox the pump. Unlike some reach-dependent routes, on The French, the reach is all ape index, toe to tips distance confers little advantage while a peculiar genetic ancestry can be quite useful. This is an excellent line and very much worth solving.
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