Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob and Carrie Robertson, 1999
Page Views: 1,807 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brad Short on Nov 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


152 Opinions

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Description

Locate the small pine tree on a ledge about 55 feet up just right of Blade Runner. The route starts on a slabby face, following 6 bolts to the right side of the ledge with the pine. Care is needed on the ledge, as it is littered with gravel-sized rocks.

Gingerly step left around the tree and air it out to the 7th bolt. Most climbers over 6 feet tall will be able to clip this bolt with a stretch from a stance on the ledge. Shorter climbers will experience the "joy" of making a move a two a ways out from the 6th bolt. Although the crux is a couple of bolts before the ledge, the last 2 bolts will get your attention.

This is a good route that deserves the 10b/c rating in Rick Thompson's guide.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Joe Collins
  5.10d
Joe Collins  
  5.10d
If Relampango, Wadsworth, and Politically Incorrect are benchmark Cactus-10c's, then this is 10d. Jan 27, 2003
Edward Jenner
  5.10c
Edward Jenner  
  5.10c
The 7th bolt stretch shouldn't put anyone off doing this climb. Although I'm 6ft I had to make a move to clip it, but it is quite secure - good feet, reasonable hands. If you can lead up to the ledge, you should have no problem.

I also think that the 7th bolt is well placed. If it were closer to the ledge it would be useless. The anchors, on the other hand, are a different story. It looks like the rock was really well cleaned on the lower portion, but there is a rotten band with some large loose holds between the last bolt and the anchors. Moving the anchors down below this rotten section might not be a bad idea. Their position to the left of the ledge is good though.

Definitely worth getting on. Sep 8, 2003
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
I put the draws up on this for some aspiring 5.10 leaders thinking it was a 10a. Not a good choice.To me it felt easier than Politically Incorrect and I thought the crux was near the 3rd bolt (can't remember exactly). Good route overall. Apr 11, 2005
lbishop
Durango, CO
  5.10b/c
lbishop   Durango, CO
  5.10b/c
I've warmed up on this route the past two weekends and feel that it is definitely easier than Politically Incorrect but a different style. 10b/c is pretty accurate imo. Great route, good movement. Nov 5, 2007
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Although the guide says it's only (2) stars I felt this was as good as any other 5.10 at Cactus. I would even give it higher praise if it wasn't for some of the loose rocks on top of the first ledge and of course at the top. Although intimidating looking up at the bolt above the Christmas Tree ledge the holds are all there. Cool line just watch out for your belayer and people below near the ledge and upper section. Mar 23, 2008
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
WATCH OUT!!!!!
Noticed a large loose hold on the final stretch to the anchor, its out right, a jug and covered in chalk. If you like your belayer don't use this hold. Jun 9, 2008
Anybody saying they can reach the 7th bolt from the ledge is OVER 6 feet tall. I am exactly 6 feet tall and was a few inches short AND I have a positive ape index. I thought the sixth bolt was tough, friend had to finish the lead for me, but climbing it on TR I checked to see if I could clip it from the ledge - nope! Be ready to be a bit spooked unless you are really confident at that grade, it was at my limit. Sep 8, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
I'm about 5'9" and I was able to reach the bolt above the tree after a move, then go back down to ledge and clip a long draw with a biggggg stretch. The top of that tree looks like it's been sharpened to sodomize someone. Jan 18, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c R
Fun climb, but good God this one's sustained! I just wish the FA party had placed one last bolt in the upper section. My arms were so blown, my grip sucked and I was slipping all the way to the anchors. It was through fear and shear determination that I didn't take a 30+' whipper. Oct 27, 2010
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10b
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10b
I feel like this route could use 1 more bolt before the anchors. If you blow the last few moves (which are quite a bit easier), you risk hitting the ledge below, or worse, getting a Christmas tree enema. Look out! Jan 21, 2014
jamesm
Canon City, Co
 
jamesm   Canon City, Co
 
I should have got some pictures of it. Beautiful day, amazing climb, one of the harder 10s I've done. Nov 21, 2014