Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Early Access
Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
|
Apprehension T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
Arcane Saw T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Bitter Route, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Cabana Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
Candy-O T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Captain Crunch S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Day Dream T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Dispensary, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Dogpatch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Flakey Floont T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Flower Quarter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
Greaser, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Hasting's Cutoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Lemon Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Lime Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Loose Lucy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Lucid Dream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Mr. Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Ms. Pac-Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Over 'ed Power Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Phee-nix T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B R |
|
|
Pickpocket T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Quantum Mechanics T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
|
|
Real Men Eat Eggs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Remention T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Rosy I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Rough Roof T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
|
|
Roving for Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Satyricon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Schizophrenia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Senora (??) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Senorita T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Shadow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Slime Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Slimy Spoon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Strangle Hold T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Stray Stud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Sub Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Suparete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Super Slab Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Tiny Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Toys for Tots T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Velvet Hammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Waking Sleep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
|
|
Zombies on the Lookout T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9309, -105.28548 |
| FA: | T. Bubb and C. Parks, 11/16/2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,247 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 15, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon's falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit cpw.state.co.us/state-parks…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Presumed FA. If not, I wonder what the other fool who did it was thinking leaving so much dirt and loose rock behind. I don't know what we were thinking... it was a dirt-fest when we did it and would get a bomb based on that, although it is cleaner with less loose rock now.
Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. There is a right-facing dihedral hanging up above you. Continue up the ladder and walk a perhaps 50 yards further to a ledge full of creeping Barberry (looks like Holly) that forms the bottom of and inset in the wall. There are overhanging dihedrals on each side. The one on the right I have presumed to be the top half of the route Senora. The one on the left is much less appealing and quite a bit harder... and called "Cabana Boy."
Climb up the dirty handcrack from the very back of it, with stems and smears to both sides until the crack goes vertical. The climb is probably easy 5.10, but as it was cleaned and climbed simultaneously, this is was actually somewhat hard to determine. If you put the wall on the left "out of bounds" the climb is hard 5.10. Continue up to the top of this short wall, perhaps 40 feet in all to a ledge and belay.
To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.
0 Comments