Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft (15 m)|
|FA:||Wayne Crill, 4/13/14|
|Page Views:||519 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Wayne Crill on Apr 17, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Begin 2m right and down from the tree on the sub-ramp that marks the start of the p3 arete on Premonition (erroneously called Velvet Arete in this database). Look for a thin, vertical crack about 1-2m left of a shallow, broken, left-facing corner below the roof and an obvious downward and left-facing flake in the roof. Climb up this crack (gear) to the broken break below the roof using the flake in the roof to reach hidden holds on the face above. This may be reachy and the gear is a bit below you but the flake is very solid, and you can get your feet high to reach good holds on the face. Exciting. Gear can be placed (with difficulty) in a crack to the right or just get established on the face and immediately find good gear above (crux, 8+ R). Climb straight up the face on good quality rock with sparse gear, staying 3-4 meters right of the Premonition arête (5.8 R). Top out at an obvious stance/alcove high on the lower ramp. Were it not for the slightly foreshortened nature of the pitch and the slight squeeze between Premonition and Sub Slab, this line would be well worth a solid two of four stars. Jalepeno to Habenero spicy.